Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peaks — Mayakovsky Peak (4208 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), Partizan Peak (4390 m), Tuyuksu Spires (4218 m), Tuyuksu Peak (4218 m), route — traverse of 5 peaks.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A in winter
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 900 m.
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 95 m.
6. Pitons hammered:

Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks

Description of the route. Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (piton belay). Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3 m wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20 m wall (pitons belay). After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10 m wall (pitons belay). Then traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall, exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn. The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf, behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third

Otechestvennoy voyny 18 c.t. from l. 3 Ordzhonikidze along the S ridge

Route description.

Initial bivouac on the right lateral moraine of Tuyksu glacier. From here, move in the direction of the northwest lateral ridge of Ordzhonikidze peak. Before reaching it, turn left. Ascend a steep scree to the terminal part of Zapadny Ordzhonikidze glacier, then traverse it to a drop, bypass it on the right, and continue ascending the scree to the last ridge of rocks descending from Mayakovsky peak. From here, begin ascending the western ridge. Traverse easy, broken rocks or, further to the right, a couloir filled with small and medium scree. Upon reaching the ridge, continue moving towards the col between Mayakovsky and Otechestvennoy voyny peaks (50–60 m). Further:

• Scree, followed by broken rocks, will lead to the beginning of the southern ridge of "Otechestvennoy voyny" peak.
• Small gendarmes on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. To rejoin the ridge, overcome a couloir ending in a steep rocky section (pitons, 2–3 hooks). After overcoming several gendarmes directly, reach the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations:

Traversing the peak Otechestvennoy voyny, 2A category of complexity, in both directions

Route description.

To traverse the peak Otechestvennoy voyny in both directions, one should familiarize themselves with the ascent route descriptions:

• from the northern side
• southern side

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of Tuyuksu glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 6:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

Otechestvennoy voyny 1Б cat. difficulty via Mayakovsky peak's North ridge

Route description.

The peak Otechestvennoy voyny is located in the central part of the Maloalmatinsky spur; Mayakovsky peaks rise to the south of it, and Antikainen peak is to the north. On the western side and northern slopes of the lateral ridge of Mayakovsky peak, a small Mayakovsky Glacier descends. The eastern slopes are cut by narrow stepped couloirs, separated by steep rocky ridges. The starting bivouac is near the Mynzhilki weather station. From here, cross the Malaia Alma-Atinka river and go around the Manshuk Mametova glacier at its foot; then ascend to the ablation zone of the Mayakovsky Glacier. Move along the moraine, then along the