Muryntau (4539 m)

1. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge.
2. Traverse Muryntau — Togu­zak from the Togu­zak glacier. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge, route category 2. (fig. 10). The summit of Muryntau is located in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the right branch of the Togu­zak glacier. To the north-west of it:

• Togu­zak pass
• Togu­zak peak

on crampons, then along the gully itself with flow ice for the first thirty meters on the right side — cutting steps. In the upper part, the gully is blocked by a rock wall 6–8 m high. It is also covered with flow ice. Protection is by pitons. Ascent through crevices. After 3–4 m, transition to the boundary of rocks and ice. Above the wall there is a ledge, convenient for belay. Above the gully, the slope is 45–50° steep, covered with ice. It is safer to pass it on the left side to the rocky ridge and traverse to the right upwards, and then move from one rocky section to another. The exit to the ridge itself is blocked by another 12-meter rock wall. Overcome it along inclined shelves. The exit to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. Along the ridge, move in the direction of the summit to the southeast. After 100–150 m, easy

Тraverse of Muruntau - Toguzak with ascent to Toguzak, category 2B route. The beginning of the route description is given in the section on ascending Muruntau peak. From Muruntau peak, the path goes along the southwest ridge to the saddle between Muruntau and Toguzak peaks. Initially, there is a descent with a height loss of 250-300 m. The ridge is snowy, with rocks protruding in some places, including a significant gendarme (bypassed to the left). The ridge has cornices hanging to the east. To the west, the ridge drops steeply for about four hundred meters. Careful belaying is necessary. On the saddle itself, there is a gendarme that is tackled head-on. After the gendarme, there is an ascent along the northeast ridge of Toguzak peak. The ridge is mostly icy and steep. At the beginning of the ridge, proceed for 200 m, then deviate to the east and, with step-cutting, overcome the remaining section to the sub-summit, which is connected to the summit by a short ridge. Toguzak peak is a narrow ridge rising several meters above the sub-summit. Cairns are built on the sub-summit and the summit. From Muruntau peak to Toguzak peak, it takes 3-3.5 hours. Descent is done along the ridge going west from the summit. The descent route is described in the ascent to Toguzak peak.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants - no more than 10 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the right moraine of Toguzak glacier.
3. Departure from the initial bivouac at 4:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 × 30 m main ropes; b) 3-4 rock pitons; c) 2 hammers.