Mt. Северная, 2B, via North Edge

Climbing type: Rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Северная (4027 m), via North Edge Difficulty category: 2B Route characteristics: Height difference — 200 m

Route description

The route starts from Алаудинский pass. Follow the ridge of the pass to the rocks of Peak Северный. From the upper point of the pass's ridge, move 2 meters to the right — the beginning of the route, the lower part of the 1st buttress, a signpost is present (М^). From the start of the route, ascend 5–8 m upwards, then traverse 10 m to the right along a ledge. Continue upwards through internal corners for about 70 m until reaching a control cairn located on a ledge of the northern ridge. Then ascend 10–15 m along the ledge to a "hole" (a gap covered by a stone slab from above). Through it, ascend easy rocks to the left and upwards to an inclined 8-meter slab at the summit, where the summit cairn is located. Descend via scree towards Шагун-Ага pass.

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Severny (North Peak) category 3A difficulty 3A, via NW ridge, 4050 m. Pik Severny is located in the eastern part of the massif, situated above the Alaudin pass. The described route initially follows the NW ridge, where the D-3 ridge converges with the wall facing north, forming a protruding angle to the NW. The approach to the route from the Kulikalon lakes takes 2.5-3 hours. After 1-1.5 hours of ascent along the trail leading to the Alaudin pass, one needs to change direction to the right and upwards along the grassy ridge. The starting point of the route is a clearly defined and protruding rocky "peak" at the base of the route. A midpoint landmark on the ridge is the "brick" - a rectangular rocky outcrop; the destination is located to the left of it. From the rocky peak, proceed right and upwards for 1 rope length - alternating belay, using pitons and rock features, to a snowy-icy section. 2 pitons, start of the route at 10:10. Continue to make your way to the "brick" right and upwards. Before reaching 1/3 of the way to the "brick", there is a talus shelf on the right where the first control cairn is located under large stones. To the 1st control cairn, 3 rope lengths. (3 rope lengths, alternating belay, via outcrops, 3 pitons). From the 1st control cairn, proceed left and upwards to 2 large boulders - 1 rope length. From the 2 large boulders, make your way to a chimney with a plug - 1 rope length. (2 rope lengths, alternating belay, piton belay, 3 pitons, via outcrops). From the plug, 2 rope lengths lead to the exit onto the NW ridge. Continue simultaneously along the ridge, with the slope to one side, towards the summit.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area — Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains. 3. Pik Severny, height 4200 m, ascent via the eastern wall. 4. Presumed difficulty category (third "B" cat. diff.). 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 185 m; length of sections with 3–4 difficulty grade — 85 m, average steepness — 60° 6. 20 rock pitons hammered in, one of them for ITO (Instrumental Technical Equipment). 7. Total hours of climbing — six hours 8. Number of overnight stays — no overnight stays.

• Porshrum on Vetene (with pitch numbers)