1. Class of ascent — traverse
2. Area of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range
3. Route of ascent — Kshemyysh — 5282 m (via N. buttress), Mushketova Southern — 5200 m, Mushketova Northern — 5150 m, Mushketova Predvershinnaya — 5019 m, Shchurovsky Malyy — 5100 m, Muztash — 5100 m, Kharsang — 4800 m, Fedchenko — 5409 m.
4. Characteristics of ascent:
   • height difference of the N. buttress — 570 m
   • average steepness of the N. buttress — 55–58°
   • length of difficult sections
     • 5 km cat. dif. — 2318 m
     • 5–6 km cat. dif. — 222 m
     • 6 km cat. dif. — 34 m

8. Peak "25 lat PRL" - 5207 m - via "Biały Koń" mandala 5A category July 24, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Pióro, Krzysztof Cieluszeck, Bogdan Jankowski From "Polskie Namioty" (for the route description to "Polskie Namioty" see the section) - ascent via "Biały Koń" mandala (through snowy-icy fields on the left ridge - 2 ropes on thin snow and 1 rope on ice) - exit to the rocky ridge. Climb 40 m to the top of the mandala on shattered rocks with flow ice. Then a sporting descent to the saddle behind the mandala. From here:

• two ropes on a shattered rocky ridge with flow ice (steepness up to 70°),
• a small ascent with the use of étriers,
• then 50 m to the next ascent on a similar ridge,
• traverse right and ascent on an almost sheer icy wall (live rocks) about 20 m upwards,
• then 30 m of icy slabs with steepness up to 45° under a big ridge ascent. On the left, the ridge drops with vertical rocky walls to the Akterek Glacier, on the right of the ridge - icy slabs with steepness up to 50°.

24. Pak (5484 m): via the northeast ridge, cat. 4A diff. August 4-5, 1969. K. Kintopf, P. Polesini, K. Kazint, G. Glazot, B. Bogdan, K. Kikowski, T. Piotrovski The peak is located in the Turnapatentse cirque of the Burovsky glacier, northwest of the Dolgaznany pass. This is a very beautiful summit with a characteristic pyramidal shape, the sharp peak of which reaches 5484 m. From the Burovsky glacier, on the left side of the Olga Fedchenko glacier, one gains about 500 m to the snowfields.

upper gentle part. Then along the snowy slope for about 1000 m to the Pirokaya saddle — to the lowest point of the ridge between the Unremarkable (Sharilya) and Warsaw peaks. The ascent route to the peak goes along the ridge leading from the Unremarkable (Sharilya) peak to Warsaw. The first elevation on the ridge is bypassed on the left along the snow. Then:

• along the gentle snowy ridge to the first ascent of 50 m (steepness 50°); the ascent is overcome head-on;
• a gentle and sharp snowy ridge of 50 m leads to the second ascent of about 10 m, which is also passed head-on on snow;
• after 30 m of snowy ridge, the exit is under the rocky summit — a tower. From under the tower:
• 40 m along the névé — ice with a steepness of about 50° with rock exits;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area — High-altitude Matcha node, Turkestan Range.
3. Ascent route — Peak Fedchenko 5400 m, via the West ridge through the Ice Dome.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1010 m, average steepness of the rocky ridge — 75°, ice slope — 55°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 28,