Muztagh Ata

Peak7,546 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Ascent of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) via the West Ridge, grade 5A, made by a Russian team in 1997.

Passport

  1. Class: High-altitude technical
  2. Eastern Pamir, Kashgar Mountains (western China)
  3. Peak Muztag-Ata (7546 m) via the western ridge, cat. diff. 5A
  4. Proposed cat. diff. 5B (possibly the 3rd ascent by a purely Russian team)
  5. Height difference — 3000 m, length — 9000 m, average slope — 20°
  6. Used pitons, 6 ice screws
  7. Climbing days — 3.5–5 (including descent to base camp)
  8. Overnights:
    • 1st in tents on a rocky platform
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Description of the ascent via an alpinist route of the 5A category of difficulty via the northwestern ridge of the Mutztag Ata peak (Kunlun Mountains, China) in 2004.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: China — Kunlun, Kongur Muztagh range. Section number according to the classification table 11.3.
  2. Peak name: Muztag Ata. Route name: via the Northwest Ridge
  3. Route classified by FASIЛ KР: 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
  4. Route character: snow-ice
  5. Height difference of the route: 3450 m. Route length: 14000 m. Length of section V category of difficulty ___________ m, VI category of difficulty ___________ m. Average steepness 30°
  6. Pitons left on the route: total ___________ including piton hangers ___________. Use of pitons on the route:
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Ascent description of Muztagh Ata (7546 m) summit via the southern ridge in 2005, complexity category 5B, snow and ice route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Eastern Pamir, China, section 11.3 of the classification table.
  2. Peak name: Muztag Ata, 7546 m, route: via the South Ridge.
  3. Proposed category: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  4. Route type: ice and snow.
  5. Route elevation gain: approximately 1450 m. Route length: approximately 3200 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty: 20 m. Average slope:
    • main part of the route – approximately 45°,
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Report on the first ascent of Mузтаг-Ата via the South Ridge, category 5B.

Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

Report

On the first ascent to Muztag-Ata (7546) via the south ridge

Moscow, MAI Tourism Club, 2005

1. Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Kongur Muztagh Range (Chinese Pamir). Valley: Kalaxung, classification table section number for 2001 — 11.3
  2. Peak name: Muztag-Ata. Route name: via the south ridge from Kalaxung Glacier.
  3. Proposed category: 5B.
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Report on the first ascent of the route "Think Twice" on the Central Buttress of the NE wall of Muztagh Tower (7273 m) in Karakoram, made by the team of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Climbing in 2012.

Russian Alpinism Championship 2012. High-altitude ascents class

Ascent Report

of the Moscow Alpine and Climbing Federation team to Muztagh-Tower (7273 m) via the Central Buttress of the Northeast Face, "Think Twice" route — first ascent, approximately 6B category of difficulty Dedicated to the memory of Pavel Kozek, who perished on the slopes of Muztagh-Tower on August 25, 2008 Senior coach: S. Kotachkov, team leader: S. Nilov Moscow 2012

Ascent Passport

  1. Karakoram, Pakistan — section 10.2 according to KMGV 2008
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