Report on the Ascent of

Peak Korzhenevskaya via the Left Bastion of the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B, by the "Black Ice" Team from July 23 to July 28, 2022

I. Route Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Mikhail Aleksandrovich Polyakov, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Mikhail Vladimirovich Grishin, 1st sports rank, Sergey Valerievich Nasedkin, 1st sports rank up to 6300 m
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Vasily Yuryevich Gordeev
1.4	Organization	"Black Ice"
	2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Report

The team of the Central Council of DSO "Mehnat" on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the central counterfort of the western wall in the program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1980 Peak Korzhenevskaya is located in the North-Western Pamir in the northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range. It was discovered in 1906 by N. L. Korzhenevsky. The summit was first conquered in 1953. By the present time, many interesting routes have been laid to the summit, including the western wall. The wall was first climbed in 1975 by our team, but as further study of the wall showed, the route taken was objectively dangerous in its lower part, which was dramatically confirmed on July 28 when a massive rockfall occurred down the central couloir. This year, three teams declared their intention to climb the western wall. We chose the safest option - to ascend via the central, indistinctly expressed counterfort. Additional research was conducted on the route, a scheme was drawn up, and the pattern of rockfalls was studied, with overnight stops planned. The team believes that such wall routes should be climbed by small groups, so it was decided to proceed with six climbers. To replenish the team with young participants, additional entries were made. The team consisted of:

• Putinchev A.V. - MS, team captain
• Voronin V.T. - MS

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: high-altitude.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall.
4. Difficulty category: 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 1900 m;
   • height difference of the wall section: 1250 m;
   • length of sections:
     • 5th difficulty category — 1040 m;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the center of the West wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1605 m
   • height difference of the wall section — 1200 m
   • length of sections:
     • 5th category — 715 m

Ascent Passport

74

I. Ascent class — high-altitude 2. Ascent region — Central Pamir 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights — Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the northern part of the western wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 2000 m average steepness of the wall section — 70°, length of the snowy section — 1000 m 5. Number of pitons: rock — 153 ice — 1, crack-drilling — 3

Report

On the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya via the northern part of the western wall by the combined team of CS FC and S. Team captain I.G. Khatskevich, team coach V.P. Popov 1974 Peak Korzhenevskaya from the west. The left (northern) part of the western wall. The region of Central Pamir with its highest peaks in the USSR - Peaks "Kommunizma" and "Korzhenevskaya" - constantly attracts the attention of both domestic and foreign mountaineers. The climbers of the Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports set a goal to climb

Dedicated to the 100th anniversary of V. I. Lenin's birth

Report

on the traverse: Peak 6200 – Peak E. Korzhenevskoi – Peak Chetyrekh, made by the team of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Education and Sports on July 28 – August 15, 1969, for the USSR Climbing Championship 1969 in the traverse category. The traversed peaks are located in the northwestern Pamir, in the Muk-su river basin. The most significant meridional ridge of the Pamir – the Academy of Sciences Range – branches out in its northern part. From Peak Akhmat Donish (6665 m) to the northwest, a powerful spur extends, bearing the peaks:

• Peak Chetyrekh (6380 m);
• Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m);
• Peak 6200. After Peak 6200, the spur sharply descends towards Muk-su.

Ascent Passport

1: Ascent category — high-altitude 2: Ascent region — North-West Pamir, Moskvina 3: Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations — east-east face of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m 4: Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1900 m, average steepness (before reaching the ridge) — 50°, length of difficult sections — 423 m 5. Number of pitons used: rock — 51 pcs., ice — 6 pcs., bolted 6. Total climbing hours — 34 h 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — five; three semi-reclining, two reclining. 8. Team name — Armed Forces of the USSR.

70 Б13

GEORGIAN ALPINE CLUB
named after A. DJAPARIDZE ASCENT TO PEAK EVGENY KORZHENEVSKY (7105 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE
REPORT Tbilisi — 1973
Team Leader: D. Dangadze Peak E. Korzhenevsky (7105 m) massif.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of high-altitude ascents.
2. North-Western Pamir. Northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak Korzhenevskaya. Height 7105 m. Via the South-Eastern slope. The route is combined.
4. Route category 5B.
5. Height difference 2925 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 16, ice 50. Used 12 pieces of protection gear.
7. Travel time: 18 hours 30 minutes.
8. One bivouac was made on the route. The bivouac site was carved out in a snowy-ice ridge. The bivouac was comfortable and met safety requirements.
9. Selivanov M.A. CMS — leader