Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. The Andes, Fitz Roy Massif (Argentina, Patagonia).
3. Summit Saint-Exupéry 2680 m via the North Ridge and East Face.
4. Proposed category of complexity 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference – 500 m; route length – 860 m; including 340 m traverse on the 3rd wall from the ridge at 70° steepness; sections of 5th-6th category complexity – 760 m; out of which 6th category complexity – 240 m. Average steepness of the route (excluding traverse) – 73°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 49/11 bolt — 2/2 protection cams — 112/17

Upper Reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier

"Description of the First Ascent to Peak Sент-Экзюпери (6063 m), Category 4B difficulty via the North Ridge". Protocol No. 427 dated January 18, 1977. Classify as Category 4A difficulty. First ascent credited to the group. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 27, 1976.

Group Composition

Leader — K.N. Veselov — Candidate Master of Sports Members:

• A.V. Abramov — 1st sports category

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent: High-altitude technical climb.
2. Region of ascent: Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range, Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi) northwest of the Abdukagor-2 pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi), 6063 m, combined route via the left edge of the western wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1160 m, average steepness up to the summit ridge 54°. Length of sections with 6th category complexity — 50 m, 5th category complexity — 500 m, 4th category complexity — 800 m, 3rd category complexity — 300 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered:

For belaying and creating artificial holds

rock — 30 ice — 87