ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — D.Z. Pvivr, Ruban Range.
3. Ascent route — First ascent of Pik Kosmonavtov–5420 m, via the north ridge.
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 800 m (1,000 m from the bivouac); average steepness — 45–50°; length of difficult sections — 120 m.
5. Pitons hammered in: rock — 33;

Ascent Record

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamiro-Alai, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Kosmonavtov via the east ridge (5420 m)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m
   • average steepness — 35–40°
   • length of difficult sections — 100 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock — 2

Peak Kosmonavtov

The 5800 m summit (4th Western peak of the Fedchenko Glacier) is located in the Marx-Engels Ridge, situated between the Bivachny Glacier and the Fedchenko Glacier opposite the confluence of the Kalinin Glacier and the Bivachny Glacier. From the Bivachny Glacier side:

• The northern slopes of the summit are covered with steep scree in the lower part and are cut by steep couloirs and buttresses in the upper part.
• The western slopes face a vast inner cirque filled with a glacier, whose tongue hangs into a couloir and is visible from the Bivachny Glacier.
• The ice is steep and of an overhanging nature. Between the 5800 m summit and the next peak to the west, there is a snowy saddle in the ridge. The snow layer is thin and lies on ice. The slopes facing the Fedchenko Glacier are very steep and rocky. The western ridge of the summit consists of three rises descending to the saddle. The ridge rocks are heavily destroyed, composed of fibrous rocks. Pitons hold poorly. On the first day, the group, leaving the 3800 m camp, descended along the Bivachny Glacier via a caravan trail for 1 hour to the slopes of the summit and began ascending steep scree towards the inner cirque.