Корона Северный

Ice section length: 680 m Ice slope angle: 55–60 degrees 80 m traverse across a snow slope, then a couloir with broken terrain 120 m long, angle 40–50 degrees. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is heavily broken and protection is unreliable. In winter the couloir is filled with snow - deep trail breaking uphill. Then turn left onto rock. Grade III rock 90 m, angle 50–60 degrees. Protection on passive gear, belay stations on ledges. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is broken. Move from the couloir right to left in the direction of the summit. Descent via rappel bolts to the upper snowfield of the Korona Glacier, below the bergschrund, and then on foot to the Korona hut.

The route starts from the upper cushion of the Uchitel glacier along the north face of Semenova Tian-Shanskogo peak to the right of the icefall. There are quite large ice crevasses on the approach to the bergschrund. From the bergschrund, the first 4.5 pitches are easy 55-degree ice until reaching a large ice ledge. From the ledge, another 5 pitches of the same ice lead to a small ledge before the rock section. The final part of the route begins along a 20 m rock couloir and then exits left onto a rock ridge. In the couloir and on the ridge, the terrain is heavily broken, the steepness is 40–50 degrees, Grade III rock (5b fr), protection using natural features. The section length is 80 m. Descent from the route, depending on conditions, is either via 3A Erapunova or via the ascent route.

In autumn 2025, two ice streams formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The first ascent of the right stream (rated 5A in the Russian classification) was made by Aleksandr Parfyonov's team in early 2026. The first ascent of the left stream was made by Konstantin Markevich with Aleksey Pototskiy in the second half of March 2026. Further, according to Aleksey: Last year was very hot in July. And as a result of this circumstance, two new routes formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The charm of these routes is that this year or next, such conditions may not happen, and these routes may not exist. But while they are there - we have to climb 😁 And we did. One route was climbed by Parfyonov with a partner in February, and the second one - Kostya Markevich and I last week. Honest 5B and this is the coolest ice in the area. The icicle itself is 170 m of 87-degree lace cascade ice. And before that, there's another 30 meters of A3 ice climbing. The lower part is 450 m of gentle ice at 55-70 degrees. Work on the route

A description of a challenging climbing route with a key section that involves using technical climbing equipment (ITC), and an overnight stay on a comfortable ledge, followed by a summit ascent and descent via the eastern couloir.

Description of the route by sections R0–R3. Start of the route. Approach to the bastion via firn and ice. Then a series of internal corners and walls, exit to a ledge. Control cairn. R3–R8. Very complex rock section. Limited crack selection and small holds. In winter, it is passed exclusively using artificial climbing techniques (ИТО). Key location of the route. R6–R16: Approach to an internal corner and chimney via a rock ledge. Difficult climbing. Movement using ИТО. Then via walls and "ram's foreheads". Exit to convenient and safe sites. Overnight stay. Section I6 — 2I. Approach to the upper key section via rock walls. Difficult climbing, rock cornice. Movement using ИТО. Exit to a bastion. Section 2I — 25. Snow-ice slope, then via rocks of 3–4 cat. sl. Exit to the summit.

Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route through Priut 11 from west to east. Route description, key points, and necessary preparations.

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Route to Peak Komosomola via SW ridge, description of summit ascent with technical details and recommendations.

4875 m

Ascent to the summit of Semenov-Tian-Shansky (4875 m) via the West face in the Ak-Sai gorge, grade 5B, winter 1994.

Ii a c ii o p t I. Season — winter Tien-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge Semenov-Tian-Shansky Peak (4875 m) via right side of West Face, combined route Category — 5B Height difference: 175 m, length — 1600 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 65° (3700–4300) Pitons hammered in:

Route passport 5B cat. diff. to Semenov-Tian-Shansky peak via West wall, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Tian Shan.

Passport I. Category — technical. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai glacier. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall. Route 5B category of difficulty, combined. Height difference — 970 m, main part of the route height difference — 565 m, average steepness — 68–70 degrees, Length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 120 m. Pitons driven: rock blade pitons ice screw 57 0 64 4 IO 0 5 0

Route description along the rock wall with detailed characteristics of the terrain and recommendations on belay organization at various sections.

Route description by sections R0–R1 — steepness 80°, cracks, well-suited for 2.5–5 cm offset wired nuts, many loose rocks; R1–R3 — everything is available for organizing protection and free climbing; R3–R4 — monolithic wall 40 meters long with a steepness of 75°, smooth, passed through a crack 10–15 cm wide, very difficult climbing, as the crack edges are smooth, large nuts and cams are required for protection; R4–R6 — everything is available; R6–R7 — relief is shallow, mostly shallow cracks, climbed using positive holds, short pitons and small stoppers; R7–R8 — an open corner with a shallow crack 2.5–3.5 cm wide, crack is blind, relief is shallow — sloping shelves 1.5–3 cm wide, 20–40°; R8–R9 — the same as R7–R8, but with less steepness — 70°; R9–R10 — an open blind corner, walls are smooth, 2 expansion bolts were hammered and left for protection, at the exit from the corner there is an overhanging blind crack 3–4 cm wide, 50–80