Korzeniewski

The traverse of Nintau and Tapgars peaks in Trans-Ili Alatau, 5B difficulty category, was made by a team under the leadership of Yu.D. Cherepinsky in August 1978.

Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge Peak — Galtvagar-po-otene-Idintaou. Traverse of Nintau Tapgars, ascent via W. wall of Nintau Presumed difficulty category — 5B Route characteristics: height difference 1500 m. length of sections with 5th diff. cat. — 435 m. average steepness — 53°. Pitons used: for creating artificial belays (i.t.o.) — 3 rock pitons

### Ascent Route to Iiyintau Summit via the Cold Northwest Wall: A Detailed Analysis A detailed description of the ascent route to the summit of Iiyintau via the Cold Northwest Wall, including a thorough breakdown of sections and technical features.

Climbing Area Map Profile, view from the southwest. Profile, view from the south. Profile, view from the southwest. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE Note: Pitons used to create artificial holds are indicated by a fraction. From the Talgar alp camp, follow the trail up the Sredny Talgar River to the Severny Talgar glacier, then up the Severny Talgar glacier. Overnight at the moraine at the foot of the IyinTau slope.

**Descent from Aktyuz Pass and Crossing Kroskha Glacier** Guidelines for climbers, including recommended equipment and essential tips for a safe passage.

Aktyuz Pass. Descend from the pass about thirty meters down the icy slope to the bergschrund (be careful!). Piton insurance. Go 150 m along the lower edge of the bergschrund, then down and right across snowy and sometimes icy slopes up to 40° to complete the descent onto Kroshka Glacier. Traverse Kroshka Glacier: go along the very middle in the upper part, and on the right side in the tongue area. Cross the moraine to a trail leading down the Orta Talgar valley. Recommendations for Climbers Maximum 6 participants. Initial bivouac on Kopor Glacier. Depart from initial bivouac no later than 5 am. Equipment for a 4-person group: a) 2 × 40 m main ropes; b) 1 × 40 m auxiliary rope; c) 5 slings; d) 10 rock pitons; e) 6 ice pitons; f) 2 hammers; g) 6 carabiners. Fig. 43a

Traverse of Talgar massif from Iiyintau to peak Gorin, cat. 5B, detailed route description, challenging rock and ice sections.

Тraverse of the entire massif from Iiyintau to Peak Gorin, route 5B cat. diff. (fig. 43, 43a). If the approach starts from the Talgar alpine camp, go up the Middle Talgar gorge, turn in the direction of the Kopr glacier (see road sign). Approach to the Kopr glacier via ancient moraines: terminal, then lateral, right. The trail is clearly visible. Go to Rakhimov's bivouac at the tongue of the glacier. Here are well-prepared places for a tent. From the camp to Rakhimov's bivouac - 4 hours walk. From the bivouac in the eastern direction, along the left part of the glacier along the ridge of the Sportivnaya peak, to the bergschrund. The bergschrund is bypassed on the left or crossed via a snow bridge. Turn right, go along the bergschrund to the first destroyed rocks. Here is the so-called Kel's tur. The height is gained gradually. From here, diagonally ascent along the ice-snow slope (steepness up to 50°). Go to a not very high, heavily destroyed ridge. At the top, beyond the end of the ridge, there is a section of ice 15-20 m. Go on crampons with hook belay (cautiously!). Behind it is a section of heavily destroyed rocks, which turn into a rocky ridge, interspersed with snowy sections. Behind this ridge, turn left onto a snowfield and exit onto the ridge of the Kopr peak. From the ice section, there is a second option for passing this segment - exit left from the rocks up the snowfield to the ridge of the Kopr peak. Here, turn right. After 50-60 m: Priyut Pyati (Five Shelter) at the rocks