Джаловчатский

Description of the 2B category complexity route to the summit of Dalovchat (Uzlovaya, 3680 m) via the north-eastern ridge in the Western Caucasus.

Ascent Passport Ascent class — rock climbing Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass Peak, height, ascent route — Dzhalovchat (Uzlovaya), 3680 m, via the northeast ridge, combined, first ascent. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B Route characteristics: height difference — 480 m, length of sections: category I difficulty — 1240 m, category II difficulty — 830 m, category III difficulty — 60 m, Total — 2130 m, average steepness of the ridge section — 35° Pitons hammered: rock, ice, bolt, placed elements. | for belay | 6 | 1 | - | 10 | |---|---|---|---|---|

Ascent log for Jalovchat Uzlovaya peak via Dkh pass on the Western Caucasus, category 1B complexity route.

Ascent Passport Snow-ice Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Naruk station Peak, ascent route — Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya from Dkh pass Expected category of difficulty — 1B Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1400 m Number of overnight stays — none Number of walking hours — 6

Ascent to the summit of Jalovchat-Uzlovaya via the eastern slope and ridge, category 1B difficulty, from the Alibek base through Turie Lake.

Description Climb route #49 to peak Dzhalovchat (Uzl) Cat. 1B to col Dzhalovchat. From the Alibek base camp follow the trail to the Turye lake. Pitch a bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend first along the green moraine starting from the lake, and then along the "ram's foreheads" and the glacier in the direction of the Dzhalovchat col. 200-250 m before the col, turn left and then move along the eastern slope of peak Sunakhet. Cross the marginal crevasse and ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the saddle between peaks Sunakhet and Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya (the glacier is heavily crevassed, belay!!!). Then, ascend along the ridge with snow and ice ridges to peak Dzhalovchat Uzlovaya. From the bivouac at the Turye lake, the ascent takes 6-8 hours. Descend back to the original bivouac via the same route. Route Conclusion The group believes that the route they have taken is no less difficult and long compared to a similar route to peak Sofrudju, and corresponds to a Cat. 1B route.

Ascent to the Jalovchat peak (3870 m) via a snow-rock route, category 1B, duration 17-19 h.

Fig. 13 Ascent to the summit of Dzhalovchat (3870 m) — cat. diff. 1B (Fig. 13) From Dombayskaya Polyana to the alpinist camp "Alibek" and further along the trail to Turyego Lake. From Turyego Lake, ascent along the moraine of the Dvuyazychny glacier (along the trail in the direction of the Dzhalovchatsky pass). Through the "baраньи лбы" (rocky outcrops) exit to the glacier and along it (in rope teams!), not reaching 200–250 m to the Dzhalovchatsky pass. Then left along the rocks of the eastern slope of the Sunakhet peak, through a marginal crevasse and along a steep snowy slope — exit to the saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat, bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana 7–8 hours. From the bivouac along the snowy slope to the summit of Uzlovaya. From it, a gentle descent to the snowy saddle to the summit of Dzhalovchat. From the saddle, along the right side of a not steep, ruined ridge upwards to the summit (insurance, rockfall danger!). Exit to the summit along a sharp snowy ridge. The ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent along the ascent route to Dombayskaya Polyana — 7–8 hours. Number of participants in the group — no more than 10–15 people. Initial bivouac — saddle between the peaks of Sunakhet and Uzlovaya Dzhalovchat.