Северный
Route Description: центру СВ стены
SSummitMateClimbing route description for the "30 let Sovetskogo gosudarstva" peak (6447 m) in the Pamir mountains via the North-East face, rated as 6th category of difficulty.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — high-altitude technical
- Ascent area — Pamir, Petra I ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: 30 let Sovetskogo gosudarstva, 6447 m, via the center of the NE wall
- Expected difficulty category — sixth
- Route characteristics: height difference — 2240 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 1st diff. cat. — 30 m, 3rd diff. cat. — 135 m, 4th diff. cat. — 360 m, 5th diff. cat. — 1565 m, 6th diff. cat. — 590 m
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateTraverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Peter I Range: Oshanina, 30 Years of Soviet State and Moskva; route difficulty category.
Report
on the traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Petra I ridge: Zapadny Oshanina (6305) — Centralny Oshanina (6390) — Vostochny Oshanina (6310) — 30 let Sovetskogo Gosudarstva (6447) — Moskva (6785) with ascent to Zapadny Oshanina peak from the Shini-Bini saddle via the northern ridge (first ascent) Team of Moscow City Council "Burevestnik" Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports V. Khomutov. Team coach: Master of Sports Yu. Borodkin.
Route Characteristics
Peaks included in the traverse:
Route Description: ЮВ стене
SSummitMateThe ascent of the Sports Committee of the Georgian SSR team to **Pik Moskva** via the South-East wall in 1979, category 6B complexity.
Ascent in the USSR Championship in alpinism
1979
- Class of ascent - high-altitude
- Region of ascent - Pamir
- Route of ascent - Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the southeast wall.
- Characteristics of the ascent: a) height difference - 2600 m. b) average steepness of the route - 75°. c) length of the most difficult sections vertically - 1500 m.
- Number of pitons used - rock 152 (including 40 channels and placements), ice - 46, and bolted - 5.
Route Description: СВ стене
SSummitMateAscent of the northeastern wall of Peak Moskva (6785 m) in the Pamir mountains via a Category 6 difficulty route, detailing preparations and tactics employed by a team of Ukrainian alpinists in 1977.
I. Climbing category — high-altitude 2. Climbing area — Pamir, Peter I Ridge 3. Peak — Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the NE wall from Fortambek Glacier 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2835 m, section lengths: III cat. diff. — 160 m, IV cat. diff. — 700 m, V–VI cat. diff. — 3515 m, including wall sections (excluding the pre-summit ridge) — 2615 m, average steepness — 75° (wall section) 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors: rock — 175, 15; ice — 101, 24; bolt — 3, 3 7. Total climbing hours — 143 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: twelve bivouacs, including one sitting and four semi-sitting due to limited platform sizes.