and fixed ropes are hung for the rest of the participants. The 2nd terminal cairn is built on the platform.

From the platform, along a narrow (20–30 cm) inclined ledge, you need to bypass a large black "tooth" on the left, which is clearly visible from the glacier. After 8–10 m, the ledge bends to the right, and the rocks overhang in this place. The wall ends with this "tooth", and then a rocky section of a ridge character follows.

You need to:

• descend to the left along the direction of movement for 15–20 m to the snow-rock garnish;
• bypass the rocky gendarme;
• reach the lowering of the ridge.

There is a convenient place for an overnight stay here. Overnight stay on the ridge is mandatory.

The entire wall is climbed in 8–10 hours with piton belay. In some areas, it is necessary to pull up the backpacks of all group members. The first person always moves without a backpack. The height of the wall is about 300 m.

On the next day, departure is no later than 6:00 am. Movement is up the ridge. Rocks are of medium difficulty.

Crossing the 1st snow-ice couloir to a separate rocky island, from the separate rocky island in the direction of rocky ridges, crossing the second couloir.

Couloirs must be passed in helmets. Belay is through ice screws.

Route features:

• In the upper part of the couloirs, there are ice falls
• Even early in the morning, ice fragments can break off
• During the day, these fragments can cause snow avalanches

After passing the couloirs, movement goes along three parallel, clearly visible, snowy rocky ridges, switching from one to another. Rocks are of medium difficulty. You need to be careful when choosing ledges for belay - the rocks are destroyed. In the upper part of the last rocky ridge, there is the III control cairn.

The exit to the northern pre-summit ridge from the III control cairn goes straight up, overcoming the riverbed.