Kilse-Burun — 2

Via the third counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 2B category

The approach to the route begins slightly west of the campsite under Kilse-Burun, 50 m east of the "36/18" kilometer post of the old highway. First, left along the trail, and then up simple rocks to the exit to a long inclined terrace. Along it, 100 m to the right and up. Then turn left and ascend simple rocks to a small terrace at the base of a small rock circus located between the third and fourth counterforts of the western part of the massif (R0 section). On the R1–R2 section — in the central part of the obscured wall:

• initially 35 m up and to the right in the direction of a small ledge (R1–R2: 40 m, 75°, IV+). On the R2–R3 section — initially a little up, and then up and left to a separate pine on the ridge of the counterfort (R2–R3: 30 m, 75°, IV+). Further, routes #2 and #3 coincide. On the R3–R4 section — from the pine 10 m up and to the right along a 10-meter steep internal corner, and then 30 m up and left along the ridge (R3–R4: 10 m, 80°, IV+; 30 m, 70°, III). On the R4–R5 section — up 80 m along the ridge of the counterfort to the exit to a large terrace. On it, the main part of the route ends (R4–R5: 80 m, 70°, III). Along the terrace (R5 section — yayla):

Kilse-Burun — 3

Via the second counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 3B (IV, 80 m) (V. Chekanov and V. Kozinog's route, 1973)

The approach to the route from the road begins at the end of the long zigzag of the road. From it, the road further goes along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. On the trail:

• At first, approach a small, separately protruding rock, previously often used for training.
• By going around the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to the base of the second counterfort of the western part of the massif. An additional landmark can be a large rusty spot on the sheer wall in

Kilse-Burun — 16. Through the central part of the wall through the inner corner, 5A (A. Brynza's route, 1991)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the campsite. From the road, ascend via a small scree to a terrace near a large rusty inner corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it (R0: 200 m, 20°, easy). On the R1–R2 section — first, ascend an 8-meter sheer inner corner to the start of a long sloping ledge. Then traverse the ledge right for 60 m (R2–R3 section) to a balcony under a steep rusty wall. At its bottom, there are 3 large vertical slots, and in the middle part, a large and deep inner corner is visible, cutting through the middle part of the wall (R1–R2: 8 m, 80°, IV; 30 m, 50°, I; R2–R3: 30 m, 50°, I). On the R3–R4 section — first, ascend 35 m up the right slot, then move left to a small ledge near the middle slot. From it, ascend (R4–R5 section) through the middle slot to the exit into the large and deep inner corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, IV+; R4–R5: 40 m, 75°, III+). On the R5–R6 section — first, traverse 40 m of scree towards the steep section of the inner corner. It is climbed on its right side. Initially, ascend the wall, then via a slot to a complex chimney. Ascend it to a grotto with overhanging walls. By-pass it on the right via a sheer wall to reach a gentle section (R5–R6: 40 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 80°, V+). On the R6–R7 section — first, ascend 20 m via scree up and left, then via the left wall. Ascend a sloping ledge to a ridge and then ascend it or the slabs above (R6–R7: 20 m, 40°, easy; 40 m, 75°, V).

Kilse-Burun — 17.

Right edge of the central wall part (classic), 4B (V, 45 m)

This is one of the oldest routes in the area and was described in the guidebook by O. Grippa and V. Goncharov "Alps in Crimea", published in 1969. The approach to the route starts left of the campsite. Traverse the talus slope (section R0) to a large solitary pine tree under the wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, unclimbed). On section R0–R1, climb the sheer wall to a small tree. From it, go up and right to a juniper tree (R0–R1: 20 m, 80°, V; 30 m, 75°, IV). There are two variations of the ascent. The first one, described earlier in the mentioned guidebook, goes left through a grotto via a large dihedral, and the second, currently more popular, goes straight up. First, we will describe the older route variation. On section R1–R2, climb 60 m up and left to a grotto via easy rock (R1–R2: 80 m, 60°, II). On section R2–R3, climb 40 m up a wide dihedral. Then, go up and right 20 m (section R3–R4) to the start of the next dihedral (R2–R3: 60 m, 70°, III+; R3–R4: 20 m, 75°, IV). On section R4–R5, climb 40 m up a long dihedral (R4–R5: 40 m, 70°, III). On section R5–R6, climb 20 m up a dihedral (R5–R6: 20 m, 80°, IV). On section R6–R7, traverse left onto broken rocks and climb up and left 20 m onto a ledge with a tree under a reddish cave (R6–R7: 20 m, 65°, III).

Kilse-Burun — 10.

Left edge of the central wall, 5B (VI, 45 m) (by P. Denisenko, 1977)

The approach to the route starts 100 m west of the camping site. From the road, ascend a small scree to a terrace at a large rusty internal corner. The route begins 20 m to the right of it, under a small rusty cornice (R0: 200 m, 20°, I). On section R1–R2 — ascend 40 m up a sheer, crumbling wall to a small shelf under a cornice (R1–R2: 35 m, 80°, V). On section R2–R3 — ascend an overhanging, crumbling wall, bypassing the cornice on the right via a thin crack. The station is above the cornice on a small ledge (R2–R3: 20 m, 95°, VIA2). On section R3–R4 — ascend a small, overhanging crack to a 10-meter chimney. In the lower part, it is quite wide with smooth walls, making it difficult to enter. Above the chimney, move up through an overhang to a small ledge (R3–R4: 25 m, 85°, VI; 20 m, 80°, V). On section R4–R5 — ascend a crack filled with earth and grass to the base of a large, long internal corner resembling an open book. This is how it got its corresponding name (R4–R5: 60 m, 75°–80°, V). On section R5–R8 — ascend 120 m up the internal corner "Book" to reach a large terrace. This is where the main part of the route ends (R5–R8: 120 m, 75°–80°, V). Along the terrace (section R8–plateau), move slightly left and then 120 m up simple rocks to the summit plateau (R8–plateau: 120 m, 50°, I). The length of the main route is about 400 m. The ascent takes 6–8 hours.

Kilse-Burun — 13

Up the centre of the rusty wall (Yellow Submarine), 6A (P. Shvets and A. Romanovsky route, 2001)

Kilse — Burun — 15

Up the red wall's centre via Crocodile belay (Crocodile), 6A (M. Turkevich's route, 1976)

Maly Kilsy-Burun — 1.

On the right side of the southwest wall, 1B (II — 100 m)

At the expansion of the upper (old) highway, turn onto the trail leading to the Kiev couloir, located between the Zamok and Maly Kilsy peaks. Follow the trail to the talus and from there to the middle part of the couloir (section R0), which is approximately opposite the start of the "Kievskaya" route on Zamok. On section R1 — 200 m up and to the right on simple rocks to the right edge of the southwest wall. Then up and left to the left edge of the buttress and along it to the wall. Then traverse right 40 m, overcoming in the lowering a неслож­ный ridge of the buttress (R1: 200 m, 40–50°; 40 m, 50°, I). On section R2 — first 20 m up and to the right to a pine tree, and from it 15 m up and to the left. Then (section R3) up and to the right to a large pine tree under the upper part of the wall (R2: 35 m, 60°, II; R3: 40 m, 65°, II). On section R4 — up and to the left, and then straight up to the exit to the summit (R4: 40 m, 65°, II). Alternative: On section R2 — from the bush 50 m up and to the right to a large pine tree (R2: 40 m, 70°, II+; R3: 20 m, 65°, II).

Maly Kilse-Bu­run — 12. Along the south-eastern ridge edge, 2B (III — 40 m), variant: 1B (I — 240 m)

In the mountains — mountaineering routes of Crimea This is one of the most popular routes in the area among "beginners". Turn from the road to the trail leading to the Kiev couloir. Go a little along the trail, then:

• ascend the scree slope under the southern wall of the summit;
• bypass it along the scree in the eastern direction;
• ascend to a small couloir between the summits of Maly Kilse and Kilse-Burun (section R0). On section R1–R2 — from the tree at the beginning of the couloir upwards 5 m to the next tree,

Maly Kilsy-Burun — 11

Right edge of the western wall of the south-eastern ridge, 3B (IV — 35 m) (by A. Brynza team, 1991)

The approach to the ledge under the central part of the southern wall is described in route 3. On the section R1–R2 — from the ledge upwards along small walls and shelves of the right edge of the western wall of the south-eastern ridge (R1–R2: 40 m, 60°, II). On the section R2–R3 — first 10 m up a sheer wall, then 10 m up a steep inner corner and another 12 m up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks to a shelf. Along it to the right to the beginning of a steep inner corner (R2–R3: 40 m, 70°, III+). On the section R3–R4:

• first up a 20-meter inner corner,
• then up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks (R3–R4: 35 m, 70°, IV). Fur­ther, the fol­lo­wing op­tions are pos­si­ble to reach the ridge. Here you can either go up and slightly left along a long inner corner (section R4–R5), or up and to the right along moderately difficult rocks (section R4') to reach a tree on the ridge (R4–R5: 30 m, 70°, III+; R4': 50 m, 70°, III).