DESCRIPTION

ASCENT TO SMIDOVICH PEAK (3359 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE (PHOTO № 1, 2, 3, 4)

Smidovich Peak is located in the Kardyvach Lake area, so the base camp for the ascent is set up near Kardyvach Lake.

Approach to the overnight stay at Smidovich Pass:

• Starts from Kardyvach Lake through the gorge of the Upper Mzymta River to the northern wall of Laub Peak.
• A gentle ascent along the snowy slope goes along the Upper Mzymta River, which is hidden under the snow.
• After 2.5 hours, you should reach a steep southwestern grassy slope overgrown with rhododendron, with small rocky outcrops.
• The ascent to the western cirque of Smidovich Peak and the Tsendyshkho peaks takes 1 hour.
• The path continues across the firn of the cirque, leading to the western edge of Smidovich Peak.

Overnight stay features:

Fig. 54

1. Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Bu-Ulgen (3915 m) via the east wall — Category 4B difficulty (Fig. 54)

From Dombay plain to the Northern refuge by car. From the Northern refuge, across the river Hokel via a log, and then to the Chotcha glade — bivouac. From the bivouac:

• Up the snowy slope towards the second eastern ridge of Bolshoy Buulgen
• Further ascent predominantly along the ridge to the first shoulder via steep (50–55°), местами за­рос­шим тра­вой ска­лам (стра­хов­ка!)
• After traversing 80–90 m along the ridge shoulder, descend to the right onto the glacier (крю­чьевая страховка!) — 40 m rappel and through the randkluft to exit onto the glacier

TRAVERSE ROUTE OF THE DOMBAY — ULGEN MASSIF July 1951

Route Description:

The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.

• When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Peak 3352 "Altyn" via the North-Eastern ridge, category 2B, by the team of AUSB Uzunkol from Stavropol on August 14, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport