Combined route, category 4B

Path from the CSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier.

From the hut (departure at 3–4 am):

• Cross the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the Tyrolean ice-snow right (first) ridge of the Northern wall of Zaromag peak, north of the Northern ridge and behind it, the waterfall of the glacier descending along the Northern slope of the Western ridge of Zaromag. From the plateau, after crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend 200–250 m along the right side of a wide ice-snow couloir (avalanche rockfall). Then turn right and reach the rocks on the left side of the Northern ridge of Zaromag peak. From here:
• ascend simple rocks
• ascend scree
• reach the saddle of the Northern ridge. On the saddle, turn left, along the steep, sharp, heavily broken, and snow-covered rocky Northern ridge, approach the First wall. Bypass the wall on the right with a 90–100 m traverse along steep, above average difficulty, broken rocks (“live” stones — piton protection) to reach the buttress on the right side of the Northern ridge. Further along steep, average difficulty, broken, and in places sharp rocks of the 150–170-meter buttress, with several 3–5-meter walls above average difficulty, then ascend the walls leading to the Northern ridge (piton protection).

a small rocky ridge and then under the wall to a well-defined inner corner. Up the 6-meter inner corner to a small site. Then, along a heavily destroyed 20-meter couloir, ascent to the ridge. From the ridge, cross a wide scree couloir, followed by a 60 m traverse along a steep, heavily destroyed, moderately difficult rocky slope to reach the ice-snow couloir. Along the 60-meter ice-snow slope, and in the upper part - a heavily destroyed rocky couloir - exit from the top of the North Counterfort to the right onto the snow slope of the hanging glacier. From here, first along the snow slope, bypassing the rocky island of the North Counterfort to the right, then passing between the rocks and a large crevasse to the right, along a steep ice-snow 150-180-meter slope, move left-up to the upper part of the snow plateau of the hanging glacier. Along a gentle snow slope, approach the saddle of the Eastern ridge to the right of the "ЗИЛ" gendarme. Overcoming the bergschrund along a snow bridge, ascend a steep 40-meter ice-snow slope to the saddle of the Eastern ridge. From the bivouac at the 2nd gendarme, 5-6 hours. From here along the Eastern ridge.

Fig. 21 89. Karaugom East (4495 m) via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by V. Lubents, category III, fig. 21). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau to the northwest (closed crevasses) and approach a wide snowy saddle on the ridge connecting the peaks of Vologata on the right and Karaugom on the left. Reach the bergschrund on the left side of the wide snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow (belay) 300–400-meter slope to the saddle. Here, turn left. Further:

• Along the wide ridge of the saddle (cornice)
• Then along the gradually increasing steepness of the North-Eastern ridge of Karaugom East (cornices)
• Exit through a 10–12-meter ice wall onto the takeoff rocks (pitched belay) Along simple and medium-difficulty takeoff rocks («live» stones, pitched belay) of the North-Eastern ridge, ascend to the shoulder. From the shoulder, along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily destroyed and snow-covered rocky ridge («live» stones — belay) reach the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 6–7 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Source:

Fig. 21 88. Karaugom East (4495 m) via the Southeast Buttress (G. Rebërn's combined route, Category III, Fig. 21). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross northwest across the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses) and approach the wide southern slope of the Southeast Buttress of Karaugom East. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend a steep 300-400-meter snowy slope (avalanche danger) to the saddle of the Southeast Buttress above the large first pinnacle. On the saddle, turn left and ascend the sharp snowy ridge (cornice). Further, along simple, partially medium-difficulty snow-covered rocks of the Southeast Buttress, approach the large pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right along a steep ice-snow slope or overcome it directly via steep rocks of medium difficulty (running belay). Behind the pinnacle, initially along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily damaged rocky Southeast Buttress with "live" rocks - belay - ascend to the shoulder. Here, turn left and along the simple, gently sloping, damaged, and snow-covered (cornices) Northeastern ridge, ascend to the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 7-8 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

"Bikaravgom Zapadny" Route via the West Ridge

(combined, 4A cat. diff.) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the starting point on the platforms of the West Ridge of Bivuchnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 2-3 am due to rockfall in the couloir and the length of the route):

• Cross the Karaugom plateau.
• Move along the wide snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the peak and the West Gendarme.
• From the plateau, ascend 50-70 m up the snowy slope of the wide couloir to the bergschrund.
• Overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge.
• Ascend 250-300 m along the left side of the wide, steep snow-ice couloir (possible rockfall — prepare equipment).
• Reaching the foot of the rocky walls of the West Gendarme, traverse 100-120 m along the couloir beside the rocks on the right side of the gendarme (rockfall onto the saddle of the West Ridge — cornice — is possible on the right).

Krasnoarmeets

A low rock tower of Krasnoarmeets peak (4200 m) is located in the Tsey range — the South ridge of the CDSA peak. Southwest of Krasnoarmeets stands a small sharp pyramid of Krasnoflotets peak. From the Karaugom plateau, Krasnoarmeets descends with:

• short unclimbed rock ribs, turning into a rugged ice-and-snow slope in the lower part.

114. Krasnoarmeets (4200 m) via Southwest ridge, category 2B (B. Simagin, M. Anufrikov, A. Gozhev, A. Makedonsky, N. Petrovich, T. Rozhdestvensky, K. Strekalov, August 23, 1946, during the traverse Bubis — Songuti). The path from the Tsey district KSP or from the village of Dzinaga (group 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in

Fig. 38 185. Mamison (4319 m) via Southeast Ridge (combined route by G. Maslov, category III difficulty, Fig. 38). The path from the Tsey district base camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Mamison Pass with the initial bivouac under it on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83-17-91-82. At the pass, turn right and approach the 150-meter wall below the lower (first) ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Mamison Peak via the firn slope. Traverse the wall from the left along a narrow shelf (belay) to a couloir. Then ascend a steep snowy and icy scree couloir to a platform. From the platform, climb rocks of above-average difficulty (pitched belay) on a 20-25-meter wall with few holds to reach the Southeast Ridge above the first ascent. Continue along the wide, long, straightforward snowy Southeast Ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on via severely broken rocks of average difficulty (belay). Then follow a narrow snowy-icy ridge to the Ronketti Pass. Approach the summit ascent of Mamison via the wide snowy saddle of the pass. From the Tsey-Mamison Pass, it takes 5-6 hours. From the saddle, ascend a steep, wide snowy slope to enter a narrow icy-snowy couloir or exit to the right onto simple rocks alternating with snowy sections on the counterforce. Follow the subsequent route:

• a steep, narrow snowy couloir,

196. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via the Eastern ridge from the North (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 38). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4–12 people) to the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier (closed crevasses):

• Ascend 300–350 m along a wide snow-ice couloir or along the rocks on its left side (there is a risk of rockfall in the couloir) to the saddle on the ridge connecting Peak Nikolayeva on the right and Khitsan on the left.
• From the hut — 3–5 hours. The further ascent route is described in route 194. Descent along the southern slope (see route 193). Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

195. Peak Nikolayeva (3815 m) via North Face (M. Anufrikov's combined route, Category III, Fig. 38). The path from the Tsей area's KSP (group of 4–8 people) to the North Branch of the Tsей Glacier with the initial bivouac in the hut of the South Branch of the Tsей Glacier is described in route 83. Cross the glacier (closed crevasses), passing under the northern slopes of Khitsan peak, and approach the right side of the three central rock spires on the icy slope of Peak Nikolayeva's North Face. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend 180–200 m up a steep ice-snow slope to the right of the central rock spires (piton belay). Then move left onto a rock shelf on the third spire. From the spire, ascend 140–150 m up a steep ice-snow slope (pitons belay) under the North rock walls of the peak. From here, move right and ascend an 8–10-meter snow-covered wall of moderate difficulty ("live" rocks - piton belay) onto a sloping ice-snow shelf. Continue traversing 100–120 m along the boundary between snow and rocks under the rock walls of the peak to the right and upwards. Then ascend a steep ice-snow slope (piton belay) to a shoulder plateau. The journey from the hut takes 5–6 hours. There's a cairn on the shoulder. From the shoulder, ascend directly up simple, broken rocks in an internal angle. Then move right and upwards along simple rocks on a short buttress and a shelf under an 8–10 m wall. Overcome the wall directly, climbing rocks of above-average difficulty (key point of the route - piton belay), and traverse a slab to reach an internal angle. Ascend rocks of moderate difficulty in the internal angle ("live" rocks) to a plateau on the right side of the buttress.

80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit. Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:

• 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
• ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome. From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours. M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier. Fig. 17.