279. Mazeri Zapadnaya via North Ridge (combined route, V. Staritskiy, cat. 4A, Fig. 32, 40). From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki (point 258) cross Ushbinsky Glacier to the right and approach the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Mazeri Zapadnaya peak via its southern branch. From the glacier, ascend a snow-ice slope with a bergschrund in the middle part, then traverse simple rocks on the left side to reach the North Ridge. From there, ascend rocks of medium difficulty, partially severely damaged, along the North Ridge. Continue along the snow-ice ridge - slope to a rocky outcrop. Ascend steep rocks of medium difficulty with two challenging wall sections to a small snow slope. Traverse the slope to the right and ascend to a platform via simple and medium-difficulty rocks along the ridge. Bivouac. From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki, 6-8 hours. From the platform, ascend 100-120 m along the ice-snow ridge, then 120-150 m along rocks of medium difficulty, and further along steep, snow-covered rocks (100-120 m) with difficulty above medium and 3-5-meter wall sections along the North Ridge to reach the platform of the Big Gendarme. The Gendarme can be bypassed:

• to the right, traversing a couloir (chimney). From here, ascend 80-100 m along simple, damaged, and snow-covered rocks on the left side of the West Ridge to reach the summit of Mazeri Zapadnaya. From the bivouac, 6-8 hours. Fig. 40.

в.­ МГП (IV on the С­ wall), 4Б­ cat.­ diff.

1st day. From the "Phelda" camp the path goes along the right orographic slope of Adyl-su to the "Jan-tugan" camp along the road and further along the trail to the old corral approximately 1 km from the Jan-tugan hostel. Then the trail turns left and goes along a steep grassy slope between two forest areas. After ascending the grassy slope between two forest areas, we come out onto the talus and then along a faintly expressed ridge we ascend to the bivouac site below the V.Ts.S.P.S. pass. The journey to the overnight stay takes 4–5 hours. 2nd day. From the bivouac, we exit onto the V.Ts.S.P.S. pass. We descend along the steep talus onto the Kurmy glacier. Along the glacier, we approach a wide couloir coming from the pilot-shaped ridge between the peaks Andyrchi Main and M.N.R. South. Along the wide couloir,

M.H.P. 3882­m.

B. MHP HOK­HAP Ascent route — Descent route

49. Nakra via North-West Ridge (Route 2B cat. dif.). The path from the "Baksan" alp camp (group 4, 20 people) to the Donguzorun false pass col is described in routes 44 and 48. From the col, go left and 300–400 m up the heavily destroyed simple rocky North-West Ridge to a site below the first rocky ascent of Nakra peak. This part of the ridge can be bypassed on the right by descending from the col 15–20 m to the south, and traversing along the ridge to reach the first snowy ascent. Here, turn left and rise up the snowy slope to the sites on the ridge. The initial bivouac is on the sites. From the "Baksan" alp camp, 9–10 hours. From the sites (without backpacks), ascent along the heavily

25. Syltran via the East Ridge (Route 1B cat.). The path from the settlement of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac by Syltrangel Lake is described in Route 22. From the bivouac by the lake, ascend along the right bank of the stream to the exit onto a small unnamed glacier flowing down the northern slopes of the East Ridge of Syltran peak to Syltrangel Lake. Walk up the glacier towards a solitary rock among the scree slopes descending from the East Ridge of Syltran. To the right of the rock, via a scree-filled couloir (rockfall hazard!), ascend to the East Ridge of Syltran. From the lake, 3–4 hours. Here, turn right and ascend over snowfields, then over scree and heavily broken simple rocks of the East Ridge. Traverse large rock towers - gendarmes on the left (with protection!). Further, over scree and simple rocks of the ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Syltran. From the col, 2–2.5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days. “Baksan Valley”, A. F. Naumov

THE GROUP'S ROUTE ALONG THE NORTH. SLOPE AND WEST. RIDGE. ROUTE ALONG THE WEST. RIDGE CATEGORY 1B difficulty. GENERAL PHOTO OF THE SUMMIT. (Taken on December 15, 2015 from the ridge between the observatory and the 105th checkpoint)

212. Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy via the North Ridge (Category 1B, L. Zanilov, D. Kuzminsky, August 30, 1962, Fig. 38). The path from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac under the terminal moraine in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, ascend the terraces and slopes on the left bank of the Sakashil River, gradually turning left and traversing the slope up to the left to reach the clearly visible saddle on the North Ridge of Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the bivouac, 1-1.5 hours. From the saddle, turn right and, bypassing a small gendarme on the left, reach the ridge. From here, ascend the wide, gentle ridge, then a rocky ascent to an inclined 15-meter slab with a crack in the upper part. After passing the slab, move up 4-5 meters on simple but steep rocks to the gentle part of the ridge. On the gentle ridge, reach the second 20-meter inclined slab, which is climbed directly. Further, on a rocky ascent, bypassing a protruding sheer angle on the left, on an inner corner and on a 30-meter crack, ascend to the gentle pre-summit ridge. On simple rocks of the ridge and a 4-5-meter ascent, climb to Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the initial bivouac, 4.5-5 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days.

The summit of MALAА Ј­ŽBA is located in the main Caucasian ridge on the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. To the northeast of M. Ј­žba is the summit of Chatyn-Tau, to the southwest — Severnyaya and Yuzhnaya Ј­žba, to the north — Shchurovsky peak. The summit of M. Ј­žba rises above the Ј­žbinskoye plateau by 150 meters. The only ridge descending from the summit goes in the direction of the Chalaat pass; in the three other directions, the slopes of the summit break off with steep walls. The first Soviet ascent was made in 1936 by a group consisting of Sidorenko and Slobodskaya via the right couloir. The ascent to the summit is made from the Ј­žbinskoye plateau. The ascent from the plateau to the summit and descent back to the plateau takes 3–4.5 hours.

264. Ushba South via the center of the Northwest wall (combined route, Yu. Grigorenko - Prigoda, cat. 5B, fig. 32, 37, 38). From the initial bivouac in the cirque of the southeastern branch of the Ushbinsky glacier, under the western ridge of Ushba South (point 259), approach the right side of the lower rock belt. From the glacier, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, then 150–200 m of very difficult rocks (aid, exposed) on the right side of the lower belt, left of a large corner, to reach the Georgian shelf. From the initial bivouac, 8–10 hours. I. Marr's group exited onto the shelf from the right, where it descends almost to the ice-and-snow slope of the southeastern branch. Along the steep snowy slabs of the Georgian shelf, make a difficult traverse 300–350 m up and left, crossing numerous ice gullies (avalanches, stones). Ascend 120 m up and left on steep rocks of medium and above medium difficulty to a platform at the end of the Georgian shelf - the upper part of the Lower rock belt. Bivouac. From the initial bivouac, 8–14 hours. From the platform, along a steep 80–90-meter ridge of the Lower ice-and-snow slope, approach the left side of the base of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt of the Northwest wall. Along a steep, difficult, interrupted ledge-corner of the Central bastion, 120 m up and right, under overhanging rocks. Through a crack in the overhanging rocks, 8 m up (aid, leaning) under a large corner. On the right side of the corner, a very difficult ascent 60–80 m (aid, leaning) onto a shelf, then through a crack and wall into a niche. Further, 70 m up a very difficult (aid, leaning) vertical corner, bypassing overhanging rocks on the left, to a small platform. Sitting bivouac. From the Georgian shelf, 10–12 hours. From the shelf, along steep, smoothed, iced rocks, a difficult ascent 40 m (aid, leaning) to the top of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt. From the Central bastion: