82. Va­khushti via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, fig. 5, 18).

From the starting bivouac on the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (point 72) ascend a simple destroyed rocky slope to reach the first pinnacle of Vakhushti's East Ridge and traverse it on the left (belay) 20 m along the snow-rock boundary. Then ascend simple rocks of the East Ridge. Pinnacles:

• traverse the second sharp pinnacle on the right along the ledges;
• traverse the third pinnacle on the right along the ledges. Further, ascend the heavily destroyed, partly snowed simple rocky East Ridge, traverse a 3-meter wall on the left to reach the «saw».

Fig. 18.

(the route is combined, Mt. Melia, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 5). From Vakhušti (milestones 82–85) along the snow and ice (cornices) Northern ridge-slope, having passed an ice crevasse, descend to a saddle. From the saddle, along the snow and ice slope approach under the first "saw-tooth" pinnacle of the Southern ridge of Inguri peak. Along a simple couloir bypass the pinnacle from the left and ascend behind it onto a snow saddle (cornice). Further along the boundary of the snow and ice slope, along the rocks on the right side of the Southern ridge bypass II–IV "saw-tooth" pinnacles. Then along the snow slope 60–80 m up to the site of a rocky "island" on a wide snow and ice saddle of the Southern ridge. Make a bivouac on the site. From "Aylama" alpbase 7–8 hrs. From the site along the ruined and jagged rocks of the 250–300-meter Southern ridge, bypassing or overcoming head-on 10–12-meter pinnacles along steep rocks of above average difficulty, exit onto a pinnacle-tower. Further 250–300 m along the jagged Southern ridge of average difficulty, overcoming head-on 5–8-meter pinnacles and bypassing the last large pinnacle of the second "saw" along steep rocks on the right, exit onto a saddle under the Pre-summit pinnacle. Along a steep smooth plate of above average difficulty 20–30 m up. Then along the rocks of average difficulty bypass the pinnacle's summit on the right and along the sharp snow (cornice) Southern ridge descend onto a sharp snow and ice (cornice) ridge. Having passed the saddle, traverse a steep snow and ice slope to the right onto the Southeastern counterforce and along simple snow-covered rocks of the Southeastern counterforce ascend onto Inguri summit. From Vakhušti summit 5–7 hrs.

126. Jangitau Main via South Face (combined route, G. Kartvelishvili, 5B cat. diff., fig. 20, 22). From the bivouac on the top of the Central Rocky Island of the Southwest Wall "Kunal" of Jangitau massif (route 125), turn left and along the left side of the broken oblique glacier of the South Face of Jangitau, approach the South Ridge of Jangitau Main. Ascent:

• Steep snow-covered rocks or a narrow ice-snow gully
• Ascend 70–80 m
• Reach the South Ridge Here, turn right and along steep snow-covered slopes of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the bastion wall. Bypass the bastion from the left and exit to the South Ridge behind it. Further, ascend steep rocks above medium difficulty on the South Ridge with challenging walls. After passing the scree, ascend to the summit of Jangitau Main via an ice-snow slope. 8 hours from the bivouac Fig. 22. From Shkhara Western to Lyalver and Tetnuldi

28. Mardjanishvili via the Eastern Ridge (ice and snow route, category II difficulty, figs. 5, 6). From the areas below Sharivtsék Pass (r. 18) turn left and ascend along the stream, then via a grassy moraine left of the waterfalls, and a snowy slope with rocky ridges. Above the waterfalls, turn right and, via a 3–5-meter rocky ascent, reach an ice and snow slope. Ascend the gentle slope towards the left side of the Western Saddle of Sharivtsék Pass. Without reaching the pass, turn left and, along a gentle snowy slope, bypass the first rocky sentinel of Mardjanishvili’s Eastern Ridge on the left (beware of rockfall from the sentinel). From the upper areas, 1–1.5 hours. For the ascent path to the first sentinel of the Eastern Ridge from the Lower Camps, see r. 29. From the I sentinel, ascend 200 m up a snowy slope on the left side of the Eastern Ridge

26. Machhapuchhare via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A difficulty, fig. 5, 7). From the upper meadows below Sharyvcek Pass (point 18), traverse right across the moraine, snow slopes, scree, and over the moraine to the Machhapuchhare glacier below the Northwest slopes of Machhapuchhare peak. From the glacier, ascend a steep snow/ice slope to the left side of the base of the West buttress of Machhapuchhare’s Southwest ridge (belay). Then 120–140 m up a steep snow/ice slope on the left side of the West buttress (pitons) to a saddle on the Southwest ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend easy, broken rock on the Southwest ridge, overcoming gendarmes and short walls with steep, straightforward simple rock climbing (“live” rocks, belay), and ascend scree and easy, broken rock to the summit of Machhapuchhare. 4–7 hours from the Upper meadows.

81. Nuam-Kuam via Eastern ridge (combined route, A. Gvalia, cat. 3B diff., see fig. 5, 19). From the initial bivouac on Ailaminskaya saddle (point 77) 5060 m ascend via large talus, then 20–30 m via steep snowy ascent (belay) on the Eastern ridge of Nuam-Kuam peak, between two rock ridges. Traverse 50–60 m up and left via ice-snow slope to approach the narrow snow-covered couloir of the Southern buttress of the I gendarme on the Eastern ridge of Nuam-Kuam peak. Ascend 80–100 m via moderately difficult, then easy rocks (“live” stones, pitons) on the right side of the narrow couloir onto the buttress.

Fig. 18.

17. Passismta ascent via the Southern spur of the Southeast ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 5, 6). At the Vaciscveri pass (point 16) turn left and ascend grassy slopes to reach the Southern spur of Passismta's Southeast ridge. From here, ascend 350–400 m up the broad ridge with numerous couloirs (loose rocks, "live" rocks, protection) of the southern spurs. Then, follow a narrow, partially snow-covered (cornices, protection) easy rocky and degraded Southern spur, and continue up the snow and ice slope to reach the summit plateau. Turn left here and ascend the snowy plateau and easy degraded rocks to reach Passismta's summit. The ascent from Vaciscveri pass takes 4–6 hours.

12. Samertskhle Zapadnaya via Western Ridge (rock climbing route, A. Naumova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 2, 4). On the wide col of the massif between the peaks of Sandro and Samertskhle (big tour, landmark 10) turn right and move along the simple 200–300-meter wide Western Ridge of Samertskhle Zapadnaya, overcoming low gendarmes and ascents head-on. Then 8–10 m along the sharp medium-difficulty (belay) Western Ridge. Further along the ledges and simple rocks on the right side of the Western Ridge. Bypass the "Jvari" gendarme on the right (belay), approach the summit ascent. From here, traverse right along narrow ledges to reach a rib, from which a 30 m traverse to the right along smooth slabs (pitons) leads to a narrow vertical couloir - chimney. Up the couloir - chimney ("live" stones) 10 m to a ledge, and from it up a steep smooth 30-meter slab (pitons) to a narrow ledge. Along the intermittent narrow ledge under the overhanging walls, traverse with a slight ascent to the right onto a narrow saddle of the Southern Rib. On the saddle, turn left and, bypassing the overhanging stones, ascend 40 m up the medium-difficulty wall ("live" stones, pitons). Further along simple rocks, ascend to the summit of Samertskhle Zapadnaya. From the big tour, the exit point to the massif's col, 5–6 hours. Descent option along the simple rocks of the Eastern Ridge to the saddle. From the saddle, to the right (south) and down along the easy simple destroyed rocks of the couloir (stones). Further:

• Descent along the snow-ice slope to the grassy slopes
• Along the grassy slopes through the saddle of the Lechumi Ridge
• Return to the base camp