Ascent Passport (v. Treugolnik via NW ridge)

I. Ascent category — technical. 2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus. Leninsky Komsomol 3. Ascent route — Treugolnik peak (3620 m) via NW ridge, combined. 4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain 800 m*. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 6 ice — 0 bolts — 0 6. Duration of ascent — 11–12 hours.

Mestia route via the Southwest Ridge, Category 1B

Route Description:

From the "Djailyk" base camp* past the "Ullu-Tau" recreation center and further along the trail along the right (orographically) bank from Adyr-Su to the moraine rises to the left of the Adyr-Su glacier tongue. The first of these has Mestian overnight stays. Climbing to the next rise, we reach the glacier and cross it in the direction of the large hitching post on which the Mestian hut is located; we go around the hitching post on the left and climb onto it. There are small crevices under the hitching post. From the Mestia Hut, we ascend a steep firn slope, and to the right of the rocky ridge, we reach the glacier. The path continues along the glacier, which is usually covered with a thick layer of snow. Large glacier crevices are bypassed on the right as we proceed. Further, after a steep ascent, we again emerge onto a large firn plateau, along which we move in the direction of the Mestia Pass. From the Mestia Pass, we turn left and move across the vast firn plateau towards the snow pyramid of Mestia-Tau. Crevices are possible on the left as we proceed. Descent is via the ascent route. The median moraine of the Adyr-Su glacier

Mestia route via the southwest ridge, 1B

Route description:

From the "Djailyk" base camp* past the "Ullu-Tau" camp and further along the trail along the right (orographically) bank from Adyr-Su to the moraine rises to the left of the Adyr-Su glacier tongue. The first of them hosts Mestia camping sites. Having ascended to the next rise, we reach the glacier and cross it in the direction of a large hitzan on which the Mestia hut is located; we bypass the hitzan on the left and ascend onto it. There are small crevasses under the hitzan. From the Mestia hut, we ascend a steep firn slope, and to the right of the rocky ridge, we reach the glacier. Further, the path goes along the glacier, which is usually covered with a thick layer of snow. Large crevasses on the glacier are bypassed on the right as we proceed. Further, after a steep ascent, we again reach a large firn plateau and move along it in the direction of the Mestia pass. From the Mestia pass, we turn left and move along the vast firn plateau towards the snowy pyramid of Mestia-Tau. There may be crevasses on the left as we proceed. The descent is made via the ascent route. Median moraine of the Adyr-Su glacier

Ascent Record

(Mestia-tau summit via the South Counterfort)

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Ascent route — Mestia-tau peak (4130 m) via the South Counterfort, combined.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1100 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 22, ice — 0, screw — 0.
6. Duration — 13–14 hours.
7. Number of nights on the route — none.
8. Team name — instructors from "Djailyk" alpine camp.

Report

On the ascent of Mestia-Tau peak via the Southern counterfort, category 4B (approximately)

Mestia-Tau peak is located in the upper part of the Lekzyr massif, in a spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge extending from the Western peak of Sarykol-Bashi. From Mestia-Tau peak, a snow-ice ridge descends westward to the Mestia Pass plateau, classified as a category 1B route. To the north, a ridge leads to the Western peak of Sarykol-Bashi and is part of the traverse of these peaks via a category 2A route. The eastern slopes of Mestia-Tau peak feature very steep and deteriorated rocks, interspersed with small ledges. To the south, the peak initially gives way to a narrow and gentle snow ridge leading to the "Uzlovoĭ" gendarme, which then drops off southward with a rocky triangular wall. The middle part of this wall forms a pronounced rocky ridge. The route along the Southern ridge is logical and safe. This route can be recommended for the ascent of sports groups at the 5th training stage located in the vicinity of the Lekzyr glacier. Map of the Lekzyr glacier area. Group's route. Tourist trails. The base camp of the Dzhaĭlyk alpine camp разрядников was situated on the right (orographic) upper lateral moraine of the Lekzyr glacier, beneath the slopes of the eastern peak of Ullu-Tau.

Route Description

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.

Traverse of peaks Ozyorny - Khimik, combined, Category 3

Route description:

From the Ulutau alpine base through the sports ground, where the trail begins, which goes past the former "Churko dorm", then along the stream (to the left of the stream), flowing from under the glacier on the northern slope of the "Treugolnik" peak. Further, the trail turns left and goes along the rocky outcrops to the training rocks "over the camp". Here the trail is lost, you need to move up the grassy slopes to the moraine deposits and further along the moraine deposits and ascents up past the cirques of the Treugolnik and Moskovsky Komsomolets peaks to Ozyorny lake. There are bivouac sites near the lake. Going around the lake to the right, you come out onto the Ozyorny glacier. Straight ahead will be the ridge between peaks Zimny and Ozyorny (a pronounced depression in the ridge). You need to move not to this ridge, but to move along the glacier to the right along the long "fence" of the Northwest ridge of peak Ozyorny to a wide snow, in the lower part scree, couloir with a clearly visible ridge in the ridge before the gendarme. Up the couloir to the right past rocky outcrops (to the right) to the ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the shelves, then exit to the right onto the ridge and further along the ridge to the next gendarme, which can be bypassed on the right along the shelves and come out onto a large snow ridge, from which the pre-summit snow and ice ascents open up. Here it is possible to organize a bivouac, since further movement goes entirely on snow, which in the second half of the day becomes very soggy.

203. Orlyu via the North Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stream flowing with waterfalls from the left lateral gorge, which is highly elevated above the Tyutyusu valley, is described in route 184. Crossing the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream into its valley, above two waterfalls. Then:

• along the moraines and scree along the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream,
• across a simple, gently sloping (with crevasses in the upper part!) Zapadnyy Kayarta glacier, reach the saddle in the ridge between the Orlyu peak on the right and the Glavnaya Kayarta peak on the left — the Shternberg pass. To the pass:
• from the glacier, ascend a steep ice-snow slope (beware of rockfall from the peaks' slopes!),
• then ascend simple, fragmented rocks to the Shternberg pass. On the pass, turn right and:

203. Orely via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp through the Tyutyusu gorge to the Killar Pass is described in routes 184 and 201. From the Killar Pass, turn left (north) and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Orely. From here, ascend along the wide, heavily eroded, straightforward rocky ridge to the summit of Orely. From the Killar Pass, it takes 30-40 minutes. Descend via the same route. The duration of the route is 2 days. Additionally, bring an ice axe.

172. Svetgar East via the North Edge (combined route, K. Tolstova, cat. 4B, fig. 24, 27). From the col between the North and East summits of Svetgar (route 171) go left and 200 m up destroyed rocks and a gently sloping snow-ice slope on the right side of the first rocky outcrop of the North Edge, then along moderately difficult rocks of the North Edge to a ledge. 1.5 hours from the col. From the ledge, along moderately difficult rocks, passing a shoulder, reach a snow-ice slope. Then go 300–400 m up a steep snow-ice slope-ridge with rock outcrops (covered crevasses, cornices) to below the second rocky outcrop of the North Edge. Below the second outcrop, at the boundary between ice and rock, go right. Then go 60–80 m up rocks of above-average difficulty («loose» stones) to a snow-ice slope. Then go 30–40 m along a steep snow-ice slope, then along rocks of above-average difficulty to below the Big Gendarme. From below the gendarme, 30–40 m to the right and along rocks of above-average difficulty with short difficult sections of a corner-couloir, 60–80 m up to a ledge behind the Big Gendarme. From the ledge, 150–200 m up a snow-ice slope, a ridge, and difficult rocks of the North Edge. Then go 280–300 m along the steep, sharp snow-ice (cornices) North Edge, overcoming II and III gendarmes head-on, and IV and V gendarmes, bypassing them on the right («loose» stones), to ascend to the summit of Svetgar East. 10–12 hours from the initial bivouac.