Ascent Passport

1. Class: High-altitude technical.
2. Pamir, Shakhdarin Range.
3. Peak Engels via Central col, NE ridge (Chunovkine's variant), 6510 m
4. 6B difficulty category.
5. Elevation gain: 2200 m, length: 3300 m. Length of sections with 6 - 5 complexity category: 1500 m. Average steepness: rock wall — 86°, ice wall — 55°, summit ridge — 45°. Number of pitons installed on the route: 12. Previously installed pitons used: 42.
6. Team's moving time: 105 h 11 min.
7. Overnights: 1st — sitting on a rock ledge

1. Climbing category is altitude-technical.
2. Climbing area — South-West Pamir, Kyshty-Dzherob gorge.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: peak Engels. South summit 6318 m East wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category 6B.
5. Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference 1318 m Walls 1170 m Average steepness 80° Length of complex sections (5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m.

USSR Alpine Federation Donetsk Regional Alpine Section

Report

of the Donetsk Alpinad participants on the traverse of the peak 40th Anniversary of Komsomol of Ukraine – peak Engels approximately 5–6 category of difficulty with the first ascent of the western wall of peak 40th Anniversary of Komsomol of Ukraine, carried out for the 1967 Ukrainian SSR alpine championship in the traverse class. Donetsk, 1967

1. Geographical location and sporting characteristics

The area of peaks Marx and Engels is located within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR, in the southwestern Pamir, within the geographical coordinates: 37°02′–37°06′ north latitude and 72°29′–72°32′ east longitude. Alpinists began to explore this area relatively recently compared to other regions of the Pamir and Tian Shan. Only in 1954 did an expedition from the Georgian Alpine Club arrive here. They were the first to ascend several peaks in the area, including the highest point – peak Karl Marx (6726 m) from the south (from the East Nishgar glacier), and the third highest peak – peak Friedrich Engels (6510 m) from the south (from the Kishty-Dzherob glacier). A high (over 6000 m) ridge from peak Leningrad State University to peak Marx drops steeply to the east into the Zughvand valley, forming a nearly vertical wall about 8 km long. The northeastern walls of peaks Marx and Engels (to the right of the Kustovsky route, beyond the wall's bend) can evoke admiration for their inaccessibility from any master of wall climbing. Therefore, with the recent introduction of a new class – high-altitude technically complex ascents – in the USSR alpine championship, this area has become very popular and will remain a pilgrimage site for many alpine groups for a long time.

REPORT

on the CS "Zenit" championship in alpinism 1972 on the traverse "Peak 40 let LKSM Ukrainy (6318 m) — Peak F. Engels (6510 m)" of the team from Dnepropetrovsk regional council of DSO "Zenit" (in the class of traverses) Dnepropetrovsk 1972

5. Route Description

August 8. The group left the base camp (4200 m) at 9:00. Ascended by the moraine of the Kish-ty-Dzherob glacier, then through slushy snow on the right side of the glacier to the ridge (5200 m). Two relatively flat snow platforms were trampled and the group spent the night there. August 9. Departure at 9:00. The weather was excellent. Ascended to the ridge at 5200 m in rope teams: VALIK—SEMENOV, NAZARENKO—KOZAK, SAMOYLENKO—GREBENKIN, PROTSENKO—SUSLOV. The rope teams remained unchanged thereafter. Movement was simultaneous; the snow was steep but not yet slushy up to the ridge. Descended from the ridge via a rappelled rope to the Zugvand glacier. Then ascended up the glacier. The slope was approximately 20°, but it was not very hot, and the snow began to slush, making it hard to move. Steps were alternately kicked. By 16:00, they reached the start of the route. The key section ahead was the traverse of the Western wall of Peak 40 let LKSMU. They set up a camp, had a snack. At 17:00, the rope team VALIK—SUSLOV went to reconnoiter the start of the route. The route begins with negotiating a bergschrund and exiting onto ice under the marble belt. The ice slope was 30–35° steep and 200 m long. There was a thin layer of slushy snow on the ice, making it difficult to move in crampons. The available daylight was used to process the ice section. The rope team VALIK—SUSLOV, without backpacks and with three 80-meter ropes, used ice screws for protection and fixed ropes up to the rocky outcrop under the marble belt. By 20:00, the team returned to the tents on the Zugvand glacier.

Protocol № 339 dated 12.09.1971 5B first ascent VT-6 111 Report of the team from the Novosibirsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the ascent of Peak "40th Anniversary of LKSМУ"

Peak Yangel (5950) (description) July 1973

Academician Mikhail Kuzmich Yangel

On October 25, 1971, at the age of 60, the outstanding scientist and designer in the field of rocket and space technology, candidate for membership in the Central Committee of the CPSU, deputy of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR, twice Hero of Socialist Labor, laureate of the Lenin and State Prizes of the USSR, academician Mikhail Kuzmich Yangel died suddenly. Mikhail Kuzmich Yangel was one of the most prominent designers and creators of domestic rocket and space technology. With his creative work, M.K. Yangel made an invaluable contribution to the development and improvement of rocket and space technology and the exploration of near-Earth space. M.K. Yangel's bright talent and great knowledge in many areas of science and technology, as well as significant experience in design and research work, allowed him to create a creative team that successfully solved the tasks set by the party and government. M.K. Yangel:

• Was born on October 25, 1911, in the Irkutsk region, in a peasant family
• Worked as a laborer, assistant master

Description of the Route to Peak 5148 m, Category 3B (First Ascent) via the Southeast Ridge

From the base camp, follow the trail along the Vyz-dara River to the "lower campsite" on the terminal moraine ridges of the Vyz Glacier. The journey from the base camp to the campsite takes 2.5–3 hours on foot. From the "lower campsite":

• follow the surface moraine of the Vyz Glacier
• in the direction of the gendarme at the end of the ridge, visible from the campsite
• keeping to the right side
• leaving the moraine lake on the left Approach the northern slopes of the ascent object (Fig.1). It takes 2.5–3 hours to reach the gendarme from the "lower campsite". Then, ascend a steep snowy slope (30–35°) about 50 m long to reach the snowy plateau of the ridge. Continue leftwards and upwards (along the route) through steep scree and heavily broken rocks, bypassing the "Black Finger" and the sharp rocky ridge to the shoulder of the buttress (see Fig.2). Movement is simultaneous in rope teams. From the shoulder of the buttress, ascend rightwards and upwards through steep ledges (total length about 100 m) to a snowy couloir (piton protection!) (see Fig.3). Then, continue rightwards and upwards through the snowy couloir to a wall and further up the ridge to the gendarme's summit (see Fig.4). The upper part of the couloir has ice under the snow. Piton protection is used in the couloir.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent region North-western Pamir, Shikhdarinskiy ridge
3. Ascent route category 5 I 48 m, Kovo-vostochny ridge route
4. Proposed category of difficulty 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1250 m, average slope 40°
6. Pitons driven Rock — 6 pcs.
7. Number of walking hours: 13

EXPEDITION OF THE ROSTOV REGIONAL COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS TO THE SOUTH-WEST PAMIR REGION IN 1973.

Climbing Report

on the unnamed peak 5500 m via the south-eastern ridge — first ascent, category 2B difficulty. Climbing team members:

• Shalagin A. — 1st sports category — team leader
• Kolyshkin V. — 1st sports category — participant
• Makarenko B. — 1st sports category
• Fedorov A. — Master of Sports — trainer-observer
• Myasin P. — 1st sports category — participant
• Osipov N. — 1st sports category — participant

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — First ascent via the center of the North-Eastern wall of peak 5241 m (Marshal Zhukov G.K. peak)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference 1250 m
   • average steepness from bergschrund 76°
   • wall proper 80°
   • length of complex sections 980 m
5. Number of pitons driven: