Fig. 16

a stream or a snowfield closing it and 500–600 m up along the grassy slopes and scree of the Western ridge of pik Semenovskogo. Further, a climb to the shoulder along simple rocks. From the shoulder, there is a 200–250-meter traverse with an ascent along the scree and simple rocks on the right side of the ridge (protection needed!); then 30–40 m left and up, an ascent to the ridge behind the gendarme. Along the 12–15-meter ridge and a 10-meter ledge on its left side, there is a descent into the gap. From the gap, 300–350 m up along simple rocks («loose stones!») and scree of the ridge or its left side, further, an ascent onto a snowy slope along the slabs and then an ascent to the top of pik Semenovskogo along it.

• From the left-bank moraine — 4–5 hours
• Descent along the ascent route to the moraine — 1.5–2 hours Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4–20 people.
2. Initial bivouac — left-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier.
3. Departure time — 5–6 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2×30 m; rock pitons — 2–3; rock hammer — 1; carabiners — 6–7; tent — 1.

Peak Semenovsky 4050 m via the South Ridge, Cat. 1B difficulty

From the Dzhangi-Kosh Hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of the 4050 peak, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050 m, 1–1.5 hours from the hut. Cross the cirque to the left in its lower part and ascend via the fine reddish talus or outcrops of broken rocks onto the S. ridge. To the right of the ridge, move up with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops, crossing snowfields, to the pre-summit rise of the ridge. Traverse along a ledge to the right of the ridge into a snowy gully and up it for 150 m to the NE ridge (ice possible in the upper part of the gully; one can divert to the rocks on the right). Follow the NE ridge leftwards to the summit, 4–5 hours from the hut. Descent follows the ascent route — about 1.5 hours. Hazardous areas:

• ice possible on the ledges of the S. ridge
• ice possible in the pre-summit gully

Peak Semenovsky via the NE ridge, 2A

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, follow the trail down, cross over the S. spur of peak 4050, descend 150 m down the gully between the slope and the right-bank moraine, then head right and up along the mudflow and avalanche deposits along the W. slopes of the spur into the S. cirque of Peak Semenovsky — 4050, 1–1.5 h from the hut. Ascend via talus and snowfields to the NE edge of the cirque, under the couloir descending from peak 4050. Follow the snow-rock boundary (on the left) up the couloir (watch out for falling rocks on the right) to the saddle on the NE ridge, left of peak 4050. Along the rocky ridge with simultaneous belay on rock outcrops (caution: heavily deteriorated rocks) through a series of low "gendarmes", about 1 h. The last "gendarme" is bypassed on the right with piton belay. Then, along a wide snowy ridge with outcrops of deteriorated rocks — a gentle ascent to the summit, 5–6 h from the hut. Descent is via the S ridge, as described earlier. Hazardous places:

• Couloir — prone to rockfall
• Rocky terrain — heavily deteriorated
• Possible ice on the descent from the summit in the couloir and on ledges Special equipment — 3–4 rock pitons.

5. Ukyu via NE ridge, 3A

The movement to Ukyu Pass is as described in section 3. The pass point is between the final rocks of the SE ridge of Ukyu and a standalone rock (there is a small glacial lake under the rock). From the pass:

• down a steep talus couloir (caution! – rockfall hazard) to a rocky outcrop,
• then left down to the talus and to the glacier,
• down the gorge in the "pocket" between the glacier and the slope to the flattening of the North Ukyu glacier (landmark: on the opposite side is the beginning of the ascent to the May 9 pass on the NE ridge of Dumala peak). From here:
• left upwards, ascent on talus, broken rocks, and snowfields on the NE ridge of Ukyu to the control cairn. From the pass, it takes 1.5–2 hours. Upwards along the snowy ridge with steep ascents (ice is possible, piton protection). A rocky "gendarme" in the ridge is passed head-on. To the summit, it takes 4–5 hours.

Fig. 17

Fig. 17

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team

To the summit 3652 m. Working name — peak TK MISiS (TK MISiS)

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge. (43°4′5.09″ N 43°17′16.41″ E) via the southern ridge First ascent. Presumably 2A category of difficulty. Galimzyanov T.R. — Zaryaev V.V. 2016

Ascent participants

Fig. 20

63. Kichkidar via Western slope of the Southern ridge (route is combined, 2A cat., fig. 5, 7). The path from the “Jailyk” alp camp (group of 4–12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with the initial bivouac at the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses) approach the snowy-ice Western slope on the left side of the saddle of the massif, which connects the Kichkidar peak on the left and the Yunumkara peak on the right. From the glacier, having crossed the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend 180–200 m up the steep snowy-ice Western slope to the snowy-ice saddle (possible cornices) to the left of the two rocky towers of the Zaitsev. On the saddle, turn left and along the wide snowy-ice ridge (cornices) of the saddle, approach the ascent to the Kichkidar tower summit. Along the steep easy rocks of the ascent, bypassing the gendarme on the left, with a 10-meter wall (belay) on the Southern ridge, ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From the “Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochovki” 3–3.5 hours.