132. Bokos Western (4060 m) via Western Ridge (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the wide leftmost snow couloir rising to the Western ridge of the Western Bokos peak, to the right (east) of the Big rocky gendarme. From the plateau, ascend a steep 120-150-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and cross it in the middle part via a snow bridge. Continue up a steep snow slope (avalanche risk) for 150-200 m to the Western Ridge saddle (belay required). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snow-covered rocks of the Western Ridge, then a steep 80-100-meter ice and snow slope (running belay) to the Northern Ridge (cornices). Turn right here and:

• ascend a sharp, steep 40-50-meter Northern Ridge (cornices)
• then ascend simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks to reach the "Western Bokos" summit. From the plateau - 3-4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BUTSP

Fig. 29 125. Bubis (4428 m) via the North-Eastern slope (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevices) approach the middle of the north-eastern ice and snow slope of Bubis along the glacier. From the glacier, overcoming the bergschrund using a snow bridge, ascend the occasionally steep ice and snow slope (many open and closed crevices) between two groups of ice falls located to the left and right of the middle part of the slope, in the direction of the saddle of the massif between the summit of Bubis on the right and a snow dome on the left - until reaching the main ridge of the summit. Depending on the condition of the slope, it is possible to ascend to the main ridge of the summit to the left of the snow dome. On the south-eastern ridge of the summit, turn right and ascend along a simple, gently sloping, wide, occasionally narrow, long ice and snow ridge (cornices), then along simple, ruined rocks to the summit of Bubis. Duration:

• From the initial bivouac on the plateau: 4-6 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Features:

Burevestnik-Karaugomsky

Burevestnik-Karaugomsky (3900 m) is located in the Main ridge between the Bokos massif to the west and Bubis peak (behind the Central and Eastern col of Shovi-Karaugomsky pass) to the east. Burevestnik-Karaugomsky rises 120–150 m above the Karaugom plateau. On July 30, 1953, V. Tsirkunov and R. Markelov ascended to the summit via the only existing route. 128. Burevestnik-Karaugomsky via the Western ridge (combined route, 1B category of difficulty, fig. 29). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak or on the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau directly under the summit is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) along the central branch of the plateau, approach the snowy slope of the wide col connecting the western ridge of Burevestnik-Karaugomsky peak to the left and Bokos to the right. From the plateau, approach the bergschrund along the snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend the steep 60–80-meter snowy slope (insurance) to the left side of the col (caution - cornice). On the col, turn left and along the wide snowy, occasionally sharp (cornices) Western ridge, then along a small simple destroyed rocky ascent and again along the snowy ridge (cornice) ascend to the summit of Burevestnik-Karaugomsky. From the plateau - 2-3 hours. Descent is via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days. Source: Naumov A.F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BU­RE­VE­STNIK-KA­RA­UGO­M­SKY

136. VTsSPS-Karaugomsky North-South (combined route, category 2B, fig. 20, 29). The path from the Tsей Alpine Camp (TsAL) or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugom plateau under the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevasses) approach the base of the North ridge of the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif across the snow plateau, and, crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the snowy slope to the North ridge. Along the gently sloping snowy North ridge (cornices) and a small rocky ascent — ascent to the North summit of the VTsSPS-Karaugomsky massif. From the North summit, a short descent towards the Central summit. Further along the gently sloping snowy ridge (cornices), then across simple rocks — ascend to the Central

135. VTSSPS-Karaugomsky South — North (combined route, category 2B, Fig. 20, 29). The path from the Tsey region KSP or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau under the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevices), approach the right side of the saddle connecting Bokos to VTSSPS-Karaugomsky across the plateau. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund using a snow bridge, and ascend 80–100 m up the snowy slope to the snowy saddle (belay). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy slope, then a simple rock ascent leads to the South ridge of the VTSSPS-Karaugomsky massif. Further along the long, simple, heavily destroyed, and snow-covered South ridge with numerous simple gendarmes, approach the rock ascent to the South summit. Ascend the 15–20-meter wall (loose rocks — piton belay) to the South summit. From the South summit, traverse along the simple, heavily destroyed rock ridge to approach the wall of the Central summit and ascend it straight up (loose rocks — belay) to the Central summit of the massif. From the Central summit, traverse along the long, gently sloping snow ridge (cornices) to reach the North summit. From the North summit, make a short descent onto the snowy North ridge and then descend along it (cornices), followed by its right slope, overcoming the bergschrund in the lower part, and descend rightward onto the Central branch of the Karaugomsky plateau. The duration of the route is 6–8 hours excluding approaches. Fig. 29

Fig. 28 119. Dubl pik Se­ver­ny (4516 m) via East slope (route is combined, G. Belikova, 3B cat. dif., fig. 28). The path from CSP of Tsey region (group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Severnaya branch of Tsey glacier opposite the col of Dubl pik is described in route 83. From the bivouac, descend to the center of the ice-snow slope descending from the col between the South and North summits of Dubl pik across the glacier plateau. A large snow cornice overhangs from the col.

“Live” rock - piton protection, with several small gendarmes and narrow, short saddles, ascend to the site of the East shoulder of the ascent between two small gendarmes. From the site, overcoming a small gendarme head-on, cross the saddle and via steep rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the ridge, ascend to the Big gendarme. The Big gendarme can be initially bypassed on the shelves on the left side, then via steep couloirs (“live” rocks, protection) ascend behind it to the snowy saddle under the 3rd gendarme. The gendarme is overcome head-on via rocks of medium difficulty. Bypass the 4th gendarme via steep destroyed rocks, with an exit above the saddle under the gendarme. This gendarme is passed via rocks of medium difficulty on the ridge, then via the sharp snowy 200–250-meter ridge (cornices), via simple rocks the ascent to the summit of Zaromag. From the gendarme “ZIL” hours. Descent to the south. The duration of the route is 3 days.

Fig. 21 89. Karaugom East (4495 m) via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by V. Lubents, category III, fig. 21). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau to the northwest (closed crevasses) and approach a wide snowy saddle on the ridge connecting the peaks of Vologata on the right and Karaugom on the left. Reach the bergschrund on the left side of the wide snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow (belay) 300–400-meter slope to the saddle. Here, turn left. Further:

• Along the wide ridge of the saddle (cornice)
• Then along the gradually increasing steepness of the North-Eastern ridge of Karaugom East (cornices)
• Exit through a 10–12-meter ice wall onto the takeoff rocks (pitched belay) Along simple and medium-difficulty takeoff rocks («live» stones, pitched belay) of the North-Eastern ridge, ascend to the shoulder. From the shoulder, along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily destroyed and snow-covered rocky ridge («live» stones — belay) reach the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 6–7 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Source:

Mos­kvich

The Mos­kvich peak (4009 m) is located in the central part of the Kalper ridge, between Passionar­iya to the north-east and Lagau to the south-west. To the west, into the Tsey gorge, the summit drops with:

• steep rocky edges
• ice and snow slopes To the Kasar gorge, to the Mos­kvich glacier —
• gentle, but heavily destroyed simple rocky slopes

219. Mos­kvich from the west via couloir and North-Eastern ridge, beyond cat. diff. (G. Bu­kharov, A. Ber­dichev­skiy, B. Dor­ofeev, A. Zak­harov, G. Kuch­kin, I. Smir­nov,

202. Kenchat via the North ridge (category 1B, A. Zyuzin, S. Katsnelson, A. Kaverin, F. Kompaneyets, L. Khodyush, August 7, 1938). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stony plateau in the upper reaches of the Tyutyusu gorge is described in route 184. From the plateau, turn left and first go along the glacier, then along the gentle moraines and talus to reach the left branch of the unnamed glacier flowing from the Killar pass. This is the starting bivouac. From the last grove, it takes 6-8 hours. From the bivouac, exit to the left branch of the glacier and ascend to the upper snowy plateau along its right edge. On the plateau (many crevasses!), head towards the wide saddle of the ridge between the peaks of Orel on the left and Kenchat on the right. From the plateau, overcome the bergschrund along a steep 120-meter ice-and-snow slope (rockfall hazard!), then ascend simple, destroyed rocks to reach the Killar pass saddle. Here, turn right and exit onto the North ridge of Kenchat peak. From here, the ascent follows the ice-and-snow ridge (cornices!). The 1st gendarme and, after an 8-10-meter snow bridge, the 2nd gendarme are overcome along the ridge. After the gendarmes, ascend along the snowy ridge with huge cornices, or along the heavily destroyed, simple rocks of its left slope (belay!). Then, ascend along the upper part of the snow funnel formed by the curved ridge. Further, ascend along the rocky-snowy ridge (cornices!) to reach the summit of Kenchat. From the pass, it takes 2-2.5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days. Additionally, bring 2-3 ice axes.