Fig. 16

Fig. 16

Sella Pass

Here is the original image: and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints:

20. Ullauuz via South Spurring Ridge — category of difficulty (G. Chunovkin, Yu. Komarov, A. Pugachev, V. Stankevich, Yu. Shevchenko and I. Shestipalov, August 24, 1964). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp to the bivouac on the South ridge of the Utug pinnacle see in description 18. From the bivouac:

• Descend from the ridge to the snowy plateau of the glacier, above the third stage of the icefall
• Ascend along the plateau, then along the snowy rise to the upper snowy plateau of the cirque, formed by the peaks Ullauuz and Kundyum-Mizhyrgi
• Behind the South spurring ridge of the Ullauuz peak, visible from the bivouac, to the left (rope

Fig. 17

Fig. 17

4310 — Gestola, NE ridge, traverse, 4A cat. Route of ascent to the top. Gestola through Mt. Lyalver.

• Red dashed line — ascent route
• 4A route is indicated by a blue dashed line
• A possible emergency descent route, unclassified route, is indicated by a black dashed line
• Green labels — overnight stays 4 — Chyornye Osypi (Black Talus) stop.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lyalver.

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge, in the Bezengi Wall. The ascent to Gestola via Lyalver is classified as 3B cat. difficulty.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 2.0, Bilyagidon gorge.
3. Peak, route: Bilyagikhokh South (3971) South ridge.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock.
5. Route description: height difference — 400 m, route length — about 800 m, length of sections:
   • 3rd category of difficulty — 60 m.
   • 2nd category of difficulty — 350–400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°
6. Pitons driven: protection through ledges.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus; 2, 6; Sugansky ridge.
3. Peak, route: p. Botkina (3897 m) from the south via the north-west ridge.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 1B rock; p/p
5. Route characteristics: height difference – about 600 m, route length – 1200 m, length of sections:

• 2+ category of difficulty – 150 m.
• 2 category of difficulty – 550 m. average steepness of the main part of the route — 35°.

3. Maly Galdor via the Western Ridge (combined route, category II difficulty). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–12 people) to the platforms near the black rock is described in route 1. From the platforms, ascend via a potentially snow-covered scree-filled couloir towards the saddle between Sredniy and Maly Galdor. In the middle part of the couloir, exit it and proceed 200–250 m upwards along the scree shelves and rocky outcrops on its right side. Then, ascend a steep 80–100-meter ice-and-snow slope of the couloir (risk of rockfall — use protection) to reach the right side of the ridge saddle between Maly Galdor on the right and Sredniy on the left. At the saddle, turn right and exit onto the rocks of Maly Galdor's Western Ridge. Continue along the straightforward, occasionally steep ridge rocks, overcoming small rock formations head-on (the large rock formation can be bypassed on the right with protection), to ascend Maly Galdor. The ascent from the platforms near the black rock takes 3–4 hours. The descent follows the ascent route. Source:

• Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.