Counter traverse + Φ Rock with piton 40 m, 80° V 60 m, 65° IV+ 8

DUPLICATE NORTH PEAK B

VIA EAST RIDGE R15: 20 m 40° 3 RIDGE R14–R15: 80 m 80° 5 WALL R13–R14: 80 m 60° 4 RIDGE R12–R13: 150 m 70° 1 RIDGE, ICE R11–R12: 100 m 70° 4 RIDGE R10–R11: 60 m 30° 3 RIDGE R9–R10: 50 m 80° 5 WALL

173. Zaromag (4203 m) from the south (the route is combined, category 2B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-20 people) to the Skazsky pass is described in route 166. On the pass, turn left and follow the simple, then moderately difficult rocks of the saddle ridge, alternating with snowy sections, to the left side of the Skazsky pass - "False pass". It is possible to descend from the pass directly along the couloir, but it is prone to rockfall. Here, turn right. Descend along a wide scree, and lower down, snowy couloir to a small South-Skazsky glacier in the Zaromag gorge. From here:

• to the right - down
• to the "Green" areas on the grassy hill of the left-bank moraine not far from the Zaromag glacier, under the southern slopes of Aday peak.

VTSPS Shoulder West Ridge 200 m snow slope 2 Hanging Glacier Drop 150–200 m 45°–50° 3–4 Big Wall 70 m 4 Slab-wall 40 m 4 Ridge 3–4

V. Zaromag via the left buttress of the northern edge, cat. 4B

BOL. SH. I ZH. IV ZH. Eastern ridge ZH. «ZIL» Saddle Western ridge VCSPS shoulder

Zarsmag 4B

Kalper

Kalper (3800 m) — the extreme northeastern, purely rocky peak of the Kalper ridge. Its northern ridge descends to the confluence of the Tseylo and Ardon rivers. There are many "live" stones on the slopes and ridges of the summit. Fig. 42 211. Kalper via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (rocky route, category 2B, fig. 41, 42). From the CSP of the Tsey district (group of 4-20 people), ascend along the trail on the grassy slopes along the left bank of the Skazdon river. Then turn left and move up along the trail on the grassy slope along the edge of the forest towards the cone-shaped tower. Bypass the tower on the left and exit to the right onto the scree. Ascend to the second, standalone rocky tower via the scree, bypass it on the right, and enter the scree-filled couloir leading to the Ossetian pass. On the left side of the wide, snow-filled couloir in its upper part, bypass a rock protruding into the couloir on the right, and ascend to the Ossetian pass (stonefall is possible from Peak Three into the couloir and onto the pass). From the CSP of the Tsey district, 6-7 hours. From the Ossetian pass, descend along steep, fine scree slopes, then along a snowy slope. Cross the bergschrund and exit onto the Kalper glacier (stonefall is possible from the slopes of Peak Three), cross it, and approach the median moraine. From it, ascend to the right — upwards, first along the glacier, then along the snowy slope to the left side of the saddle connecting the Kalper summit and Peak Shulgin — the Kalper pass. From the Ossetian pass, 1.5-2 hours. The Kalper pass has a bivouac site. Water is available on the western slope of the Southern ridge of the Kalper summit.

From the "Осетии" pass, descend down to the glacier under the slopes of V. Kamenny. The route begins on the right part of the glacier under the slopes of V. Kamenny. Section R0–R1. The beginning of the route is to the right of the stream flowing from the couloir. It is climbed with alternating belay. The terrain is a fusion of ledges with short walls (4–6 m). The upper part of the section enters the beginning of the couloir: there are rocks in the couloir. The rocks are of medium and below medium difficulty (piton belay). Section R1–R2. From the beginning of the couloir, move along its right side, along the beginning of the rock outcrop (rock outcrop against the background of the snowy couloir). There is a wall with a shoulder at the top. The rocks in the section are below medium difficulty. Section R2–R3. Climb with alternating belay (be cautious on the left side — rocks); in the upper part, the route exits onto a ledge; from here, glacial ice is possible at the beginning of the season. Section R3–R4. From the ledge, turn right, along rocks of below medium difficulty (pitons), pass 80–100 m and exit onto a shoulder (on the shoulder) to the beginning of the main inclined ledge — a control cairn. Section R4–R5. From the control cairn, move along simple rocks and an inclined ledge, which leads to a shoulder (good platforms on the shoulder). Section R5–R6. From the shoulder, turn left and climb the wall with horizontal ledges to a platform under the beginning of a vaguely expressed inner corner. The rocks of the section are of medium and above medium difficulty. Climb with alternating belay (pitons). Section R6–R7. From the ledge, along the left side of the inner corner, under the ridge. Climb the section with alternating belay (pitons).

LAGAU via NW ridge, cat. 3B diff. via 3rd ridge, cat. 2B diff. via SW slope, cat. 2B diff.

Ascent Route Description to the summit of Lagau, 4064 m

From the West

Approximately 2B cat. diff. From the lower Zaramag camps, the path lies in the direction of the glacier descending from Mt. Zaramaga. Cross two streams and then follow the trail towards the left (in the direction of travel) green moraine. In the middle, traverse the talus to the right green moraine. Up along it, under the reddish rocks. Leaving the rocks on the left, ascend to the upper camps. The journey from the lower to the upper camps takes about 2 hours. From the upper camps, head up and to the right, towards the black moraine talus, approximately 15 minutes. The order of movement from the upper camps:

• Turn right and ascend this talus for about 5 minutes.
• Then head towards the depression in the next black talus descending from the slopes of Mt. Adai (on the left in the direction of travel).
• Enter a wide snow-ice cirque. From the upper camps — 30–40 minutes.