Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation The quality of photographic materials does not correct No. 32. Classify the route. Classified 3 cat. sl. No. 533 from No. 529 November 22, 1983.

Report

on the first ascent of p. 4974 (peak F. Dostoevsky) via the right counterfort of the Southwest wall by the group of LOS DSO "Burevestnik" gathering. Group leader Evstigneev A.V. July 5–7, 1982. Leningrad

Tactical actions of the team

The group started the ascent in the following rope team configuration: Litskevich–Pruss, Vasiliev–Shaginyan. Departure from the bivouac under the route on July 14, 1983, at 8:30 after a communication session. The steep part of the couloir was traversed by 14:00. Exit to the ridge at 15:00. Stop for a bivouac on the ridge before descending to the saddle before the "Tower" gendarme — 17:30.

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region, range — Pamiro-Alay, Turkestan.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky), via the right counterfort of the SW wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A, combined.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 620 m length of 5–6 sections — 130 m, average steepness — 45°
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 60 (rock) for creating artificial holds — 8

Ascent Day Passport

I. Ascent classification — technical 2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan 3. Peak, its height, route — peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky) via the right counterfort 10–3 of the wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m length of sections — 6th cat. diff. — 120 m, average steepness — wall sections — 60° 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 56 for creating belay anchors — 5