СЗ кф.

Rock5,152 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Report on the ascent made by a group of climbers of category 5B route to the summit of Bodkhona via the North-West buttress.

Ascent Log

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains, northern part.
  3. Peak "Bodkhona", 5138 m, 5B category of difficulty via the North-Western Counterfort, G. Gulnev 1967.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route elevation gain: 1440 m (by altimeter); route length — 2940 m; length of sections with V category of difficulty — 250 m; VI category of difficulty — 130 m; average steepness of the main part of the route — 55–60°, (up to Gulnev's shoulder); entire route — 45°.
  6. Hooks left on the route: 0. Hooks hammered on the route:
    • Bolted: 2* / 1*
    • Rock: 8* + 10 / 2
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Report on the ascent of the national team to the summit of Bodhona (5138 m) via the northwestern spurs, category 5B route in the Fan Mountains in 2005.

Ascent Passport

  1. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section No. 5.3.1., item No. 27.
  2. Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
  3. Route name: via the northwestern counterfort
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route character: rock
  6. Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category – 255 m, VI difficulty category – 13 m Average steepness:
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Report on the passage of a Category III route to the summit of Bodhona (5138 m) via the North-West Counterfort, Fan Mountains.

Ascent Logbook

  1. Technical category.
  2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains, northern part.
  3. Peak "Bodkhona", 5138 m, 5B category via the Northwest Counterfort, G. Gulnev 67.
  4. Route type: rock.
  5. Route elevation gain: 1440 m (by altimeter); route length — 2940 m; length of sections with V category complexity — 250 m; VI category — 130 m; average steepness: main part of the route — 55–60 degrees (up to Gulnev's shoulder); total route — 45 degrees.
  6. Pitons left on the route: 0. Pitons hammered on the route:
    • Bolt pitons: 2*/1*
    • Rock pitons: 8* + 10/2
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Bodhona via the North-West spur, a Category 5B climb, undertaken in 2005.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains (northern part), Alaudin Lakes area. Section № — 5.3.1., item № 27.
  2. Peak name: Bodkhona (5138 m)
  3. Route name: via northwestern counterfort
  4. Difficulty category: 5B
  5. Route character: rock
  6. Height difference: 1420 m Route length: 2123 m Length of sections: V difficulty category — 255 m, VI difficulty category — 13 m Average steepness:
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