С стене
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateThe second ascent of the northern wall of Oguuz-dashi Peak (Teskey Ala-Too) by Khilko V.P.'s team in 1986, category III, length 1060 m with slopes up to 80°.
- Ice class
- Teskey Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge
- Peak Oguz-bashi 2nd West along the northern wall
- Peak Oguz-bashi, cat. dif. 5B, second ascent
- Height difference: 800 m, length — 1060 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 700 m, average steepness of the entire route ~ 55° (4200–5000 m), of which: 50° (4200–4500 m), 80° (4500–4700 m), 70° (4700–4950 m)
- Pitons driven (approximately):
- rock 60, ice 90, chocks 6
- Team's climbing hours to the summit — 14.5 hours
- Convenient overnight stay on the summit ridge.
- Team leader Khilko Vladimir Pavlovich — CMS (unofficial)
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of Category III, Grade 5B route via the North wall to the summit of Oguz-bashi 2nd Western in the Terskey-Alatoo ridge.
Passport
I. Class — ice and snow. 2. Terskey-Ala-Too, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak Oguz-Baschi 2nd Western, via the ice couloir on the North face. 4. Proposed 5B category difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: total — 840 m; wall section — 740 m, its length 838 m, average steepness — 65°. Length of sections with VI category difficulty — 38 m, V — 800 m. 6. Pitons driven:
| Ice | Snow |
|---|---|
| 225 | 2 |
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateAn account of the ice ascent to Sugul-Beshi West peak in the Central Tian Shan by the "Profsport-P" team in 1988.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — ice and snow
- Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
- Oguz-Bashi 2nd Western (5000 m) via N wall
- Estimated difficulty category — 6B. V. Leontiev's route (1984)
- Height difference — 665 m
- Distance — 880 m Distance of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 880 m. Average steepness — 50°.
- Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |