To the Main Judges' Panel of the 2005 Russian Alpine Championship, High-Altitude Class

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Khan Tengri 6995 m via the center of the North Face. Combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes. From August 20 to 30, 2005, the FASKO team consisting of Tukhvatullin I.Kh. and Shabalin P.E.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9
2. Khan Tengri peak 6995 m, from S. Inylchek glacier via the center of the N. face
3. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, combination of Studenin-74, Myslovsky-74, Zakharov-88 routes.
4. Route type - combined
5. Height difference of the route - 2760 m.

ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) by the team of Mosoblsporkomitet.

I. High-altitude class

2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge.
3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the center of the North face.
4. Myslovsky's Route. 6th cat. of difficulty. Second ascent.
5. Height difference 2350 m. Length 3930 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. of difficulty: 1640 m. Average steepness of the main part (4650-6950 m) is 55°. Including 6 cat. of difficulty: 70° (5060-5100 m), 90° (5200-5220 m), 85° (5550-5600 m).
6. Pitons used:
   • Rock pitons: 242/2
   • Chocks: 41/0

1. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 of the classifier
2. Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m), from the S. Inylchek glacier along the center and couloir of the Northern wall, Mylovsky's route
3. Submitted — 6B cat. diff.
4. The nature changed
5. The route height difference — 2810 m Route length — 4316 m Length of sections:
   • V cat. diff. — 81 m
   • VI cat. diff. — 5 m Average steepness: