правой части С стены
Mixed5Б6,446 m
Route Description: правой части С стены
Climbing passport for Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face, grade 6B, Pamir, Peter the First ridge.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: high-altitude technical
- Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
- Expected difficulty category: 6B
- Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |
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Route Description: правой части С стены
Description of the ascent made by N.P. Kovtun's group to the summit of Peak Abalakov in 1979, route difficulty category, details of the climb, and key obstacles.
ASCENT REPORT
- Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
- Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
- Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
- Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
- Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |
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Route Description: правой части С стены
First ascent via the north face of the Peak E. Abalakova (Pamir, Fortambek Glacier) in 1977.
- CLIMBING CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
- CLIMBING REGION — PAMIR, FORTAMBEK GLACIER
- CLIMBING ROUTE WITH SUMMIT HEIGHT — FIRST ASCENT, NORTH WALL OF PEAK E. ABALAKOV, 6446 m
- CLIMBING CHARACTERISTICS:
- HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 2350 m
- AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 66°
- LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS — 1250 m
- PITS SET:
- ROCK PITS — 173
- ICE PITS — 51
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Route Description: правой части С стены
Report on the second ascent of the route with category 5B difficulty level on the North face of Pik E. Abalakov in the Pamir Mountains in 1978.
- Climbing category – high-altitude and technical
- Climbing region, ridge – Pamir, Fortambek glacier, Peter I Ridge.
- Peak, its height, route – Peak E. Abalakova, 6446 m, via the N wall.
- Proposed difficulty category – 5B (second ascent)
- Route characteristics: height difference 2350 m length of difficult sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty 1410 m average steepness 66°
- Pitons hammered: for belaying – 163, for creating artificial anchors – 0 steel – 148 (15 of them at bivouacs), ice – 15, bolt – 0
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