правой части С стены

Mixed6,446 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Climbing passport for Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face, grade 6B, Pamir, Peter the First ridge.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
  2. Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
  3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
  4. Expected difficulty category: 6B
  5. Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |
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Description of the ascent made by N.P. Kovtun's group to the summit of Peak Abalakov in 1979, route difficulty category, details of the climb, and key obstacles.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
  2. Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
  4. Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
  5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
  6. Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |
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First ascent via the north face of the Peak E. Abalakova (Pamir, Fortambek Glacier) in 1977.

  1. CLIMBING CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
  2. CLIMBING REGION — PAMIR, FORTAMBEK GLACIER
  3. CLIMBING ROUTE WITH SUMMIT HEIGHT — FIRST ASCENT, NORTH WALL OF PEAK E. ABALAKOV, 6446 m
  4. CLIMBING CHARACTERISTICS:
    • HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 2350 m
    • AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 66°
    • LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS — 1250 m
  5. PITS SET:
    • ROCK PITS — 173
    • ICE PITS — 51
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Report on the second ascent of the route with category 5B difficulty level on the North face of Pik E. Abalakov in the Pamir Mountains in 1978.

  1. Climbing category – high-altitude and technical
  2. Climbing region, ridge – Pamir, Fortambek glacier, Peter I Ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, route – Peak E. Abalakova, 6446 m, via the N wall.
  4. Proposed difficulty category – 5B (second ascent)
  5. Route characteristics: height difference 2350 m length of difficult sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty 1410 m average steepness 66°
  6. Pitons hammered: for belaying – 163, for creating artificial anchors – 0 steel – 148 (15 of them at bivouacs), ice – 15, bolt – 0
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