правой части СЗ стены
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of Shater peak (5568 m) in the Pamir Mountains via the North-West face, rated as 5E difficulty.
I. Class of ascent: first ascent 2. Region of ascent: K-3 Pamir, Garm-Chashma valley 3. Peak, height, ascent route: p. Shatyor 5568 m, via the right part of the NW wall. 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5E cat. 5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall section: 1200 m, length of the wall section: 1300 m, length of sections with 5-6 cat.: 724 m, length of sections with 6 cat.: 75 m, average steepness of the wall section: 72° 6. Pitons hammered: rock placements - bolted 158/17, 107/9, 5/5 7. Number of climbing hours: 55, days - 7. 8. Bivouacs: 1st - sitting in a tent, 2nd - lying in a tent, full of snow, 3rd - sitting in a tent, platform laid on an inclined shelf, 4th, 5th - lying in a tent - platform trampled in the snow under the overhang of the I 7th bastion, 6th - lying in a tent - platform trampled on a snow ridge
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the right part of the northwest wall of Mater Peak 5568m, made by the Kharkov mountaineering committee team in July 1986.
Ukrainian SSR Climbing Championship 1986 First Ascent Category
REPORT
on the ascent to Peak Shater 5568 m via the right part of the NW wall, 5B category of complexity (first ascent) by the team from Kharkov Regional Sports Committee. Team Leader: Tanets A.A. Team Coach: Artemenko G.P. 310003 Kharkov, Palace of Labor Kharkov Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society 310121 Kharkov 68A, Heroes of Labor St., apt. 34. Tanets A.A.