баст. ЮВ стены

Mixed6,875 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent of the team from the Irkutsk Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" sports society to Pik Rossiya (6,852 m) via the bastion on the south-eastern wall in the Central Pamir in 1980.

Burevestnik Central Sports Council Alpine Championship, high-altitude class CENTRAL PAMIR. ACADEMY OF SCIENCES RANGE. PIK ROSSIA (6852 m). Via the bastion of the south-eastern wall. Team from the Irkutsk Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society. Second ascent of the route. Irkutsk, 1980.

Ascent Details

  1. Ascent class — high-altitude
  2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, starting from the Bivachny Glacier
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The ascent of Pik Rossiya (6,852 m) via the Southeast Face and the Y-8 Bastion, made in 1979 by a team of climbers led by E. Ilyinsky.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent class — High-altitude
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Akademii Nauk Ridge, Central Pamir
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Rossiya 6852 m via the Bastion on the SE wall
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
  5. Route characteristics:
    1. Height difference — 2050 m, Bastion height difference — 1150 m, "lap" — 800 m
    2. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1460 m
    3. Average steepness of the "lap" — 55°, average steepness of the Bastion — 75–80°, average steepness of the route — 70°
  6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 236, ice — 7, "chocks" — 40; for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO) — 10
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