Description of the route 3Б cat. sl. to Peak Vils, 4,100 m. Approaches.

From A/L "Tsey" 1.2 km south (A = 195) to the entrance to a wide couloir falling from the northwest walls of Peak Vils. Then move up the couloir. The couloir is cut by a narrow canyon; one should move to the left of the canyon (on the orographic right side of the couloir) up to its beginning, vertically upwards, 1.2 km. At the place where the canyon begins, there are spots for tents. Bypassing the canyon from above, traverse a steep scree slope - about 300 m (with caution, all upper couloirs are stone-hazardous, especially the southern one!) to a rocky counterfort; bypass the counterfort from below, then move up and to the left to its upper part - about 200 m to the overnight stay. The overnight stays are located on a scree section in the upper part of the counterfort, 100–150 m from the NW ridge of Peak Vils. The ascent from A/L "Tsey" to the overnight stays is approximately 1.3 km, taking around 6 hours.

Route.

From the overnight stays, move towards the ridge in the direction of the counterfort with a pronounced rock outcrop. There are two possible variants along scree ledges and easy rocks to the ridge; once on the ridge, climb easy and moderately difficult rocks to a horizontal ledge going left, 0.5–1 m wide, then along the ledge (about 30 m) to a clearly defined internal angle. Alternatively: from the overnight stays, along easy and moderately difficult rocks and scree ledges, directly under the counterfort to a horizontal ledge 0.5–1 m wide, in the left part resting against an internal angle. From this ledge begins the key section of the route.

A	B
1	2
Route 5A cat. complexity via N ridge
p. Vils
"Triangle"
4
3
Big sharp rock

Route Description

From the sites under the buttress, along the talus shelves in the direction of the buttress with a large sharp ledge (150 m). The ascent to the buttress begins along a wide internal angle ("live" stones - belay) through rocks of medium difficulty. Further on, along simple rocks, bypassing the large sharp ledge of the buttress on the right side. Here is the control cairn. From the control cairn, traverse to the right with an exit to a small site under a 40 m slab-like wall. Along the 40-meter wall (pitons belay, key point of the route). Ascent to the buttress to a large boulder lying separately, which is bypassed on the right. Further on, along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the buttress in the direction of the "triangle" formed by the depression in the buttress. The "triangle" is bypassed on the right along simple rocks ("live" stones). Further ascent to the buttress and along rocks of medium difficulty (belays through ledges) with small walls upwards in the direction of the saddle between the buttress and the ridge of Peak Vils. On the saddle, there is a large site (there is a place for a tent). From the site upwards along the talus (there may be snow) ascent upwards and to the left (150 m) in the direction of the destroyed north-western edge of Peak Vils, representing 3 large "gendarmeries". The "gendarmeries" are bypassed on the left along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the couloir ("live" stones, belay). From the third "gendarmerie", exit along simple and medium difficulty rocks ("live" stones - belay) to a large snow site under the summit. From it, along the talus (possibly snow-ice) slope, ascent to Peak Vils. Estimated time to complete the route is 6–8 hours. Descent along the ascent path. From the large boulder lying separately on the buttress, 40 m rappel. Descent along the South ridge of Peak Vils, category 2A, is also possible.

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route