Ptiitsa via S ridge, cat. 3B.

Route description

From the "3900" bivouac move in the direction of the upper plateau of the Khyundyum-Mizhyrgi Glacier. The fourth step of the glacier is climbed near the rocks of the W ridge on Khyundyum-Mizhyrgi (piton!) or through the center (crevasses!) of the glacier. Then, follow left with minor ascent to approach the slopes of Ptiitsa (1.5–2 hours). From the plateau, through a small bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the rocks at the lower part of S Ptiitsa, left of a weakly expressed couloir. From here, ascend slabs (60 m) and then an inclined ledge up and right (80 m) to reach a rocky terrace. Then make a short traverse left to the base of the couloir which, 40 m later, will lead to a rocky platform on the left part of the snowy-icy slope. Along the wall of S Ptiitsa, ascend rocky outcrops and snowy-icy sections (piton!), 120–140 m, to a rocky niche. From here, ascend a steep icy chute (60 m) (piton!) to a snow patch that leads to the saddle between Ptiitsa and the dome. Two rope lengths before the saddle, sharply turn left into a narrow couloir. In the couloir, first ascend ice, then rocks, to a crevice with ice flow, which will lead to a snowy ledge 5–6 m from the summit, a rocky pyramid. Time required to ascend from the plateau — 5–6 hours. Descent is via the ascent route:

• First, rappel (2 × 40 m) to the snowy slope.

Description of Ascending to Ptitsa Peak (traversing South and North peaks) Cat. III

Day I

Early morning departure from the alpine camp. Trek via moraine, then glacier to the 3rd step of the Kundryum-Mizhirgi icefall (see route description for Koshtan-tau via North ridge, Cat. IV). Lunch and rest at the campsite on the 3rd step. Descent to the glacier and then to the upper cirque of Kundryum-Mizhirgi glacier, below Ptitsa, at 5–6 PM. The icefall leading to the upper cirque ("4th step") is traversed either near the West ridge of Kundryum-Mizhirgi peak or through a labyrinth of crevasses in the middle section. Overnight on snow below Ptitsa. Total duration on Day I: 8–12 hours.

Day II

From the campsite, ascend a snowy slope and navigate through a minor bergschrund towards a poorly defined couloir on the right side of Ptitsa massif, gradually turning into a narrow cleft. Moderate rock climbing difficulty (5 ropes). The cleft leads to a rock wall, bypassed upwards-rightwards on ice (2 ropes). Continue ascending a snow-ice slope via rock outcrops towards the saddle between Ptitsa and the ice dome on Koshtan-tau's North ridge (5 ropes). Before reaching the saddle (1.5 ropes away), veer into a narrow snowy couloir ascending leftwards. After 30 meters, the couloir becomes a steep crevice with flow ice – the route's first critical section.