XXXV USSR Championship rock class

Report

On the ascent of p. Shchurovsky (4259 m) via the north-eastern wall, category 5B route by V. Abalakov of the SA and Navy team Team leader Zhak V.V., team coach Dzhibradev Yu.G. When developing the tactical action plan for the route, the team considered the following factors:

• the volume of information about the route available to the team before the ascent;
• the weather conditions in the ascent area;
• the duration of the approach to the route;
• the level of preparedness of the team members. To expand knowledge about the route, the team decided to observe it for a day preceding the ascent. On July 21, team members continuously observed the route (see observation and radio communication log). The observation results allowed for some adjustments to the stated tactical plan, according to which the team planned to complete the route in 10-11 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — winter.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Shchurovsky, 4259 m, via the northeast wall (V. Abalakov's route).
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: 800 m, length – 1050 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 220 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 780 m. Average steepness of the route — 68°. Average steepness of the main sections — 75°.
6. Number of pitons driven | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |