В ребру В плеча

Mixed4,251 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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A description of the ascent route to the summit, including technical information and an illustration of key stages.

Fig. 12

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Description of the route to the summit of Sullukol via the Eastern ridge, indicating key obstacles and the duration of the ascent.

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

  • up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,
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Route of 4B category of complexity to the summit of Sullukol via the Eastern ridge of the Eastern shoulder, a combined path through a glacier and rocks.

  1. Sullukol via the East Ridge of the East shoulder (combined route, G.­Kobidze, cat.4B, fig. 5, 12). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) or from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac at the sites near the Severny Sullukol glacier waterfall is described in route 106. Leave the bivouac for the Severny Sullukol glacier (departure at 2–3 am due to possible rockfall in the lower part of the route) and proceed to the icefall. Traverse the icefall to the left, and above it, reach a small upper ice-and-snow plateau of the glacier. Traverse the plateau, then ascend a gentle 500-meter ice-and-snow slope (closed crevasses) upwards-left to the ice-and-snow pad of the East Ridge of
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