левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
Route Description: левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
SSummitMateReport on the ascent to Jaylyk peak via 5B category route on the left part of the 3 wall of the shoulder, south ridge.
North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Kravchenko Inna Anatolyevna, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Shchekinova Tatyana Viktorovna, CMS |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Vasilyev Andrey Sergeyevich |
Route Description: левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
SSummitMateAscent to the summit of Dzhailyk (4533 m) via a 5B category rock route on the West Wall.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Climbing category: technical.
- Climbing area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, a key peak in the Adyr-su, Tyutyu-su, and Chegem valleys area.
- Peak, its height, climbing route: Djailyk, 4533 m — rocky route via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
- Category of difficulty: 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference 550 m, average slope 75°; section lengths: 2nd difficulty category 200 m, 3rd–4th 215 m plus traverse to the summit; 5th and 6th difficulty category 145 m.
- Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: for belay — 16, for R.P.E. — 20; chocks: for belay — 22, for R.P.E. — 28.
- Number of climbing hours — 19.
Route Description: левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
SSummitMateDescription of the technical ascent route to the summit of LKAYAL CHK (4533 m) in the Central Caucasus via the left part of the post-ridge wall of the Django ridge shoulder.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical.
- Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, key peak of the Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, and Chegem gorges area.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: DJAILYK, 4533 m, rock route, via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections of V difficulty category – 45 m, VI difficulty category – 120 m.
- Estimated difficulty category: – 5B.
- Pitons hammered:
- for belay
- rock: 32
- bolt: 42
- for belay
Route Description: левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
SSummitMateDescription of the route with complexity category 5B through the left part of the 3rd wall of the South spur of the Dzhanlychak peak, with a detailed analysis of sections and belay points used.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge, section 2.4.1.
- Peak Dzhailyk, left part of the 3rd wall of the Yugrebnya shoulder.
- Difficulty category: 5B.
- Route type: rock.
- Height difference — 730 m; route length — 1000 m. Length of sections: 5th diff. cat. — 50 m, 6th diff. cat. — 75 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 85°, entire route — 55°.
- Pitons left on the route: total — 4, including bolted — 1. Pitons used on the route: