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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Report on the ascent by the "K&S MPEI" Alpine Club team to the summit of Kirpich via the Northwest Wall, category 5A climb.

Report

ON ASCENDING KIRPICH PEAK VIA THE NORTH-WEST FACE, CATEGORY 5A ROUTE BY THE KAIS MPEI ALPCLUB TEAM FROM AUGUST 13 TO AUGUST 15, 2022

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderProskurin S.G., 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of the ParticipantsTroitskiy N.V., 2nd sports rank
1.3Full Name of the CoachKutkin S.A.
1.4OrganizationKAIS MPEI
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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Ascent to the summit of Kirpich via the north wall, technical difficulty category, climbed by the team of the Leningrad Regional Council of the ZENIT sports society in 1974.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass.
  3. Ascent route — Kirpich Peak (3300 m) via the North face.
  4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1050 (face — 700), average steepness — 47° (face — 67°), length of complex section — 160 m + 120 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: rock — 226, ice — none, bolt pitons — none.
  6. Total climbing hours — 39.
  7. Number of bivouacs — 3 (2 on the face): on ledges, in tents, snow present.
  8. Team name — Team of Leningrad Regional Council of DSO "Zenit".
  9. Team members: Ivan Yakovlevich Shestipalov — Master of Sports, leader; Boris Vasilyevich Gladkikh — Candidate for Master of Sports, Eduard Andreyevich Oshe — Candidate for Master of Sports, Vladimir Ivanovich Popov — Candidate for Master of Sports.
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Report on the ascent made by the team from the Sverdlovsk Regional Committee of the SK and Sports to the summit of Kirpich via the North-West wall in the USSR mountaineering championship.

Report

of the Sverdlovsk Regional Committee of Physical Culture and Sports team on the ascent to the summit of Kirpich (3800 m) via the NW wall in the USSR mountaineering championship. Category of technically complex ascents. Team coach and captainE. Sogrin Sverdlovsk 1969 Kirpich and the ascent route via the NW wall The radiostations were not available to the team or the camp due to a lack of power supply.

6. Team composition and technique for overcoming complex sections

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