Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR alpine climbing championship in 1973 I category ascent — technically difficult 2. Region of ascent — Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route — Main Dombay-Ulgen 4040 m, South wall 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference 1040 m

• average steepness 63° Length of difficult sections 210 m

5. Pitons hammered in: rock 121 ice — screw 1

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — wall ascent
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus
3. Ascent to v. Dombay Glavny via the southern wall (4046 m) category 6B complexity. Korotkov's route.
4. Wall section height difference — 800 m total route length — 1660 m section lengths:
   • category 6 — 220 m
   • category 5 — 720 m
5. Average steepness of the wall section — 70–80°

Class — technical. 3. Caucasus. Dombay area. Gv. Dombay (4046 m) via South face, V. Korotkov's route. Climbing category 6A. Height difference 1040 m. Length 1580 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 69 degrees. Length of sections with V–VI category — 850 m. Pitons hammered:

• rock — 5/0
• ice — 4/0
• protection gear — 116/0
• slings on protrusions — 31/0. Climbing hours — 20. One bivouac lying down in a hollow under the summit buttress. Leader — Andrey G. Shvyrev, Candidate Master of Sports, 1st sports category. Team members:

USSR Climbing Championship 1973. Technical Climbing Category

Ascent of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak via the South Face (First Ascent)

The route was climbed by the team from the "Dombay" mountaineering camp under the "Burevestnik" sports society. Coach: Master of Sports of the USSR, R.P. Stroganov. Western Caucasus — 1973 — Fig. 2. South Face of Main Domбай-Ulgen peak Since the assault team was within sight of the observation group for the first three days, the latter was able to provide clear guidance to the assault team.