Description of the route to Peak I Maya via the Southwest Ridge, category 1B complexity, with details on passage and descent.
по полкам или крутым гладким плитам does not need translation as the original text is in Russian. Here is the translation: along shelves or steep smooth plates. Careful belaying with pitons. Then through (a sleeping window) we exit onto a 5-meter rocky ridge, which we traversed with a rope. Further on, the route follows rocks of medium difficulty. There are two 7–8 meter walls, which are taken head-on — 3 rock pitons. Through simple rocks, we exit onto the summit. Control point. We found a note from a group of climbers from the Kyrgyz State University, who made an ascent to Peak I May in 1957 via the Southwest Ridge, route category 1B. The ascent from the col to the summit took 7 hours.
### Ascent to Peak Taranova via the North Ridge from Ala-Archa Alpine Camp Detailed route description and technical information for climbers.
Description of the ascent to Peak Taranovoi via the North Ridge From the "Ala-Archa" alpine camp, the trail goes up the gorge. We ford the Ak-Sai River by stepping on stones. Further on, we follow a good trail to the Teke-Tor River, which is also easily forded a little above its confluence with the Ala-Archa River. Before reaching the Tuyuk-Su River, the trail turns left up a steep grassy slope. We set up a bivouac by a lake located before a steep rise of the old moraine. From the alpine camp to the moraine, it takes 4 hours of walking. From the bivouac, we ascend via the trail to the left of the lake onto the old moraine. We overcome another rise of the moraine and reach the river. We walked along the right bank of the river to the glacier. Having ascended onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier, we ascend via the middle part of the glacier, which is the most gentle. Crevasses are circumvented. We orient ourselves towards the snowy dome of the "School 67" peak. To the left lies the Taranovoi Pass, and further left, the peak is visible. The ascent route to Peak Taranovoi via category 1B route is visible. We continue moving along the glacier towards the North edge of this peak. A bergschrund is visible. We cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge. Insurance is provided through an ice axe. After the bergschrund, we ascend a 50-60 m ice slope with a 30-35° incline onto a saddle on the North ridge of Peak Taranovoi. Piton insurance is used. It takes 3 hours 30 minutes from the bivouac by the lake to the saddle.
Climbing Mount Everest via the South Col from Nepal, a description of the challenging route and key points for mountaineers.
Description of the "Noga'r na mangapra" route in the Eeprus, Maпura massif, with a difficulty category of Pomo3.
Pic. 3. Nogar on a mangapra in Eepus. Mapura.
Route 14-700 to the summit of Donguz-Orun (4450 m) via the South-West face, a description of a challenging alpine ascent.
14-700
Description of the Susamyr range with a list of peaks: 1st Zapadnaya, 2nd Zapadnaya, Malysh peak, Tsentralnaya, Snezhnaya, Ravnotsvetnaya.
Pic. 1. General view of the Susamyr massif. From right to left the peaks are: 1st Zapadnaya (West) 2nd Zapadnaya (West) Pik Malysh Tsentralnaya (Central) Snezhnaya (Snowy) Ravnotsvetnaya (Evenly Colored) Taken from the north from the Karak-too glacier.
Description of the route to Peak Kosmonavtov, including technical information and photographs of key stages of the ascent.
Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Path to Pik Kosmonavtov
A description of the ascent route to the summit Svobodnaya Korea, located in the mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria, with details of the approach and technical features of the climb.
Fig. 1. Ascent to p. Svobodnaya Korea (general view)
Ascending Elbrus peak via the classic route from the north, route specifics and challenges, preparation, and required skills.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit via a wall with a 500-600 m sheer drop, complexity category 4A, ridge length 150 m.
The ridge is 9-10 m long, traversed astride. Further, a narrow inclined ridge expands to 20 m and is covered with large talus, leading to the summit. The ridge is 150 m long. The summit is a talus-covered area. To the north, a ridge with a steepness of 60° descends. To the east, west, and south, it drops off with walls. The route is classified as a wall climb and is distinguished by strong psychological impacts, as one has to work on a wall with a 500–600 m drop. Descent is via the ascent route. This ascent took 15 hours; 28 ice screws and 21 rock pitons were hammered in. The ascent is rated as 4A category of difficulty.