Northwestern Caucasus

Ascent to the West peak of Dzhuguturlyuchat (3700 m) from the north, route description, recommendations for climbers, and necessary equipment.

Fig. 32 Ascent to the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat (3700 m) from the north — category (Fig. 32) From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail to the crossing over the Dombay River (2 hours). After crossing the river, ascend via grassy slopes, scree, and "ram's foreheads" on the left side of the Iné Glacier. Ascend up the glacier to a snow plateau, then move right towards the "ram's foreheads," and ascend them to the scree. Continue left along the massif of Pik Iné to the first glacial couloir (be cautious of rockfall danger from Pik Iné!). Ascend the couloir left of Pik Iné to the col. Characteristics of the couloir: Lower section: ice and snow (ice in the second half of summer) Upper section: rocky Traverse in a rope team (danger of rockfall!) The col is a suitable bivouac site. From Dombayskaya Polyana, 7–8 hours. From the col, ascend via a glacier crevassed in some areas and a snow plateau to the right, towards the northern ridge of the Western peak of Dzhuguturluchat. Ascend a steep snow slope on the left side of the ridge to a 5-meter rusty wall with a slope of 80°. Ascend the wall (2 pitons) and continue via loose rocks, slabs, and a crevice on the left side of the ridge to a 3-meter loose wall. Pass through it to a platform (suitable for bivouac). From the platform, ascend to a wide ledge and along it to the left to a double crevice. After 20 meters in the crevice, exit to a small ridge notch descending from the peak to the northeast. Continue traversing left on ledges through a ridge crest, then again on ledges to the eastern ridge and along it to the right to the summit. From the col, 6–7 hours. Almost the entire path is prone to rockfall! Descent follows the ascent route, 4–5 hours. Use rappelling on steep sections.

Description of the first ascent of the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif from the West summit to Eysher saddle with ascent to the West summit via the North-West wall, category 5B, in 1962.

Description of the first ascent of the traverse of the Dombay-Ulgen massif from the Western peak to the saddle with ascent to the Western peak via the NW wall 5B category of complexity July 12–17, 1962 The Dombay region, where the Dombay-Ulgen massif is located, lies in the border zone between the Western and Central Caucasus, so it combines the nature of: the humid warm Western Caucasus; the more continental Central Caucasus. The territory of the region is part of the Teberda State Reserve. The climate of the Dombay region depends on the impact of several factors, the most important of which are: year-round influence of the western air transfer (warm and humid air masses);

Description of a Category 3 complexity route to the summit of Kirpich (3800 m) with details on passage and necessary equipment.

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m Ascent route from the west via the snowy "necktie" 3A cat. diff. From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the Mordy glacier moraine - from here, follow the trail along the grassy slopes to a large green terrace. The bivouac site - "Mordy overnight stay" - is 3-3.5 hours from the camp. From the overnight stay, head right-up along the trail to the Mordy glacier plateau. Cross the plateau and approach the snowy slopes of the "necktie". It takes 45-50 minutes from the bivouac. From here, ascend the snowy slope to the 1st rocky island (in rope teams!). Bypass the island from either side, then ascend to the next black rocky island. Bypass it on the right via a snowy bridge over the bergschrund (Belay!). Ascend the snowy slope to a long rocky island. Climb the rocks to its upper part and again transition to a steep snow slope (45° Belay!). Follow the snow slope to a rocky wall located above - to the right of a small spur of a rocky ridge. Crossing the snowy slope to the wall takes 2.5-3 hours. Along the rocky wall (60°) traverse left to a small ledge - 50-55 m (Belay! Pitons!). From here, 40 m right-up (pitons!) and 40 m left slightly up to the base of a rocky chute. Follow the chute (Piton! 30 m) to its exit and then along easy rocks to the end of the wall - 3 ropes. Above the wall is a platform - here is a control point. From the platform, follow simple rocks and small snowfields to reach the snowy ridge. It takes 3-3.5 hours from the start of the rocky wall to reach the ridge. Follow the snowy ridge to the summit - 40-50 minutes. The descent from the summit via route 1B to the Dalar pass and return to "Mordy overnight stay" takes 3-4 hours. Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 4:00 am.

Route via the south-west face of Pik Sovetov in Pamir, category 6A, with detailed description and photographs.

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