Baltoro Muztagh
Route Description: бастиону СЗ стены
SSummitMateThe Saint-Petersburg team of the Russian Mountaineering Federation has made the first ascent of the "Parallel World" route up the Northwest Wall of Great Trango Tower (6237 m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, rated 6B in difficulty.
Russian Mountaineering Championship. Altitude Class. August 2011
Report
Combined team of FASiL St. Petersburg on Great Trango Tower (6237 m) via the bastion of the Northwest Wall. Route "Parallel World". First ascent. Proposed category complexity 6B (VI+, 7b, A3). Karakoram. Pakistan.
Team leader: Kopteva M.V.
Team coaches: Chapliński I.O., Kapitanov O.V.
St. Petersburg, 2011
Climbing Passport
- Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier area.
- Peak - Great Trango Tower (Southwest), 6237 m. Via the bastion of the Northwest Wall.
Route Description: ЮВ стене
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent to the summit of Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, category 6B, completed by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai in 4 days in August 2019.
Russian Championship in Alpinism
Technical Class 2019
REPORT
on the ascent to Tangra Tower (5820 m) via the southeast wall, 6B category of complexity — first ascent by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai. July 30, 2019–August 2, 2019.
I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Prokofyev D.E. (MS) |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of team members | Popova M.E. (MS), Matyushin N.O. (CMS) |
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
SSummitMateFirst ascent description of the right part of the northwest face of Great Trango Tower 6150m in Karakoram, Pakistan, made in 2007 by a Russian team led by Alexander Mikhalitsin.
Ascent Record
- Region — Karakoram, Pakistan.
- Peak — Great Trango Tower 6150 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
- Claimed grade — 6B, first ascent.
- Route characteristic — rock.
- Route description:
- wall section height difference — 1820 m
- route length — 2100 m
- length of 6th category sections — 850 m, 5th category — 1025 m
- average steepness of the entire route — 70°
Route Description: «бастиону» СЗ стены
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of the Southwest Face of **Trango Tower** (6237 m) in Karakorum, made by a Russian team in 2007 via a Category 6B route.
Ascent Record
- Region — Karakoram, Trango group.
- Peak — Great Trango (SW), 6237 m via the bastion of the northwestern wall.
- Proposed — 6B cat. dif. (ED VI+, 7a, A3), first ascent.
- Route characteristic — combined.
5. Route Description
wall section height difference — 1830 m, route length — 2100 m, sections of 6B cat. dif. — 1050 m, 5 cat. dif. — 530 m, average steepness of the wall section — 69°. 6. Left on the route: pitons — 18, including bolted — 12; "chocks" — 1. Pitons used on the route: stationary bolted — 12, including for platform installation — 7; total ITC used — 500. 7. Number of climbing hours — 113, days — 13 (including processing).