Darvaz Range

First ascent of the right bastion of the eastern wall of the peak Suraysha (Pamir) via the route of category 6B complexity.

PASSPORT 1. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Darvaz Range 3. Peak Suraysha, via the right bastion of the eastern wall 4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent 5. Height difference — 1405 m, length: wall — 1675 m, ridge — 300–400 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1095 m. Average steepness: ice — 52°, rocky part — 76°, overall wall — 88°, including 6B category of complexity 83° (4700–4910), 82° (5030–5270) 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 204 | 10 | 89 | 39 |

Description of the ascent route to the summit, complexity category, technical details and tactics.

5764 / 29.07 29 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

### Description of the first ascent of Peak Sovetskaya Ukraina (5,764 m) via the eastern wall in the Pamir Mountains, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.

Climbing Passport MOUNTAIN ASCENT TYPE: HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL ASCENT REGION: PAMIR, DARVAZ RANGE SPUR PEAK, HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: PIK SOVIETSKAYA UKRAINE, 5764 m, via the Eastern wall from L. Suraysh PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference 1560 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty, 150 m, 415 m, 290 m, 545 m, 739 m. Average slope 70°. PITS SET: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors.

Ascent of Peak Sovetskikh Olimpiytsov via the right buttress of the south face, grade 5B, 74 hours 30 minutes of climbing time, 203 pitons.

Climbing Passport I. Climbing type: technical II. Climbing area: Western Pamir, Mazarsy ridge, Mazar valley III. Peak, altitude, route: Peak Soviet Olympians (p. 5347) via the right buttress of the southern wall; name proposed by the first ascenders IV. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff., first ascent V. Route characteristics: height difference 1420 m, length – 1625 m (of which V and VI cat. diff. – 1425 m) Steepness – 61°; in the lower and middle part of the route, there is no water for 850 m (in the second half of summer). VI. Number of pitons: 203 (rock pitons – 191, bolt pitons – 12), of which 33 for creating artificial anchors (ITO) VII. Number of walking hours: 74 h 30 min VIII. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

The ascent record of the "Trud" team to the peak Arnavad via the eastern wall in the Pamir Mountains in 1974, details of the route and team composition.

Ascent certificate for the climb completed in the 1974 USSR Alpinism Championship. Ascent class: altitude-technical. Ascent region: Western Pamir 5705 m. Ascent route: p. Arnavad (east peak 6650 m) via the east face. Ascent characteristics: height difference 2180 m, average steepness 76°, length of the most difficult sections 2190 m (height difference 1750 m, steepness 79°). Number of pitons: rock — 211, ice — 83, bollard — 4. Number of man-hours — 104. Number of bivouacs — nine, including prone — 2, semi-prone — 2, sitting — 5. Team name: team of the Leningrad Regional Council of the “Trud” Sports Society. Team members: 1. Chunovkin Guriy Alexandrovich, MS, captain, coach. Solonnikov Viktor Alexsandrovich MS participant Solonnikov Vladimir Alexsandrovich MS participant Shalygin Yuriy Vasilyevich CMS participant Pasechnikov Leonid Vladimirovich CMS participant

Description of the ascent route to the summit, technical details, and recommendations for navigating a challenging alpinist route.

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A description of the ascent route to the summit, including technical information and key features of overcoming a challenging alpinist path.

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6B category route to Pik Pravdy via the SE edge, description and photos with comments from experienced climbers.

VIH. 79 16 М АС.

First ascent of the peak Arnavad (6083 m, Pamir) by the north face, difficulty category — 6.

Ascent Passport. I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical Ascent region — Pamir, Larvazsky ridge. Peak, its height, ascent route — first ascent of Pik Arnavad — 6083 m, north wall Expected difficulty category — 6 Section characteristics: height difference — 1960 m, length of sections 5–6 km — 1550 m, average steepness of the wall — 65° Pitons hammered: for belay for 110 rock 179 19, ice 134 13

Climbing Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the challenging route and key aspects of technical preparation.

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