Ermolaeva, along the southern ridge — Vodolazko S.I. "Badzhal Range"

II A C II O P T I. Combined route. 2. Badzhal Range, Ulun gorge. 3. v. Ermolaeva, along the southern ridge. 4. Proposed — 1B cat. diff. first ascent. 5. Height difference: 350 m, length — 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°. 6. Pitons left on the route — none. Used previously driven pitons and not knocked out — none. 7. Travel hours — 5 hours. 8. Overnights: in the base camp at the confluence of the tributaries of the Ulun River.

2. via N.-W. buttress, 2A 3. via left edge 3A 4. via right S.-W. buttress, 2B 5. via W. wall, 3B 6. via right W. buttress, 3B

Via North-Western Buttress, category 2A

The route is the closest from the base camp. Begin the ascent along the right tributary of the Uluun river, after 5-7 minutes, and after crossing the river, start climbing up to the right along the slope with a gradual exit to the North-Western buttress. The steepness of the buttress gradually increases. The movement takes place on snowy, uncomplicated rocks. After an hour of ascent, the buttress flattens out significantly and turns into a forty-meter snowy ridge. Further movement is carried out directly along the buttress on snowy uncomplicated rocks with simultaneous belay. After 30-35 m:

• On a three-meter inclined plate, hook belay with alternate movement is necessary.
• Above the plate, there is a snowy shelf convenient for belay.

2. via N.-W. counterfort, 2A cat. 3. via left edge, 3A cat. 4. via right S.-W. counterfort, 2B cat. 5. via W. wall, 3B cat. 6. via right W. counterfort, 3B cat.

Ascent via right South-West counterfort, 2A cat.

The approach from the base camp to the start of the ascent takes 20–25 minutes (see the description of the ascent route along the South ridge, 1B cat.). The beginning of the ascent along the counterfort is a snowy slope 150 m long. In the middle of the slope, on the right side, there is a dangerous section - an avalanche-prone couloir, it should be crossed from left to right, and it is necessary to pass it before 7:00 am. Then it is necessary to traverse a 40 m long snow corrie. Further, 100 m along a heavily snowy ridge to the beginning of the difficult key section of the route. Pass 40 m through the chimney on the left, bypassing the forked gendarme, into a two-meter gap. The gap should be bypassed on the right. Then 40 m between the walls, through the chimney. After it, pass 20 m to the exit to the pre-summit ridge. And along it 120 m to the summit. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. Descent along the South ridge, via the 1B cat. route.

Safety assessment of the route

Via Western spur, Cat. II

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Uluun River. Begin the ascent up a snowy couloir to the right of the Western spur, sticking to the rocks. After 30 minutes, exit left onto the spur, which consists of snowy, non-technical rocks. After 80 m, the ridge becomes steeper. Approach an 8-meter wall, in front of which, lower on the ridge, a control cairn is built. The wall is climbed by alternating movement up to the left. Continue along the not-so-steep ridge for 65 m. A small 5-meter wall is encountered. The ridge turns left and abuts a 7-meter wall, to the right of which there are internal corners and large walls. Move up one of the internal corners with alternating belays. Continue with simultaneous movement along the ridge, which drops off to the right with large walls up to 60 m deep. Moving along the ridge, reach the walls of a "gendarme," which is climbed from right to left via small walls and an internal corner (first crux). Climbing is quite challenging for winter conditions; hook belays with rope protection are required. To the right, 80-meter walls with a frozen waterfall between them are visible. After passing the crux, move 55 m with simultaneous belays along the ridge. The ridge is snowy; then exit onto inclined snowy slabs. Hook belays with rope protection are necessary (second crux). After 30 m, enter a wide snowy chimney; after 50 m of movement through it, exit back onto the ridge. Small "gendarme" features on the ridge should be bypassed on the left. After 80 m, approach an 8-meter internal corner and a 15-meter wall above it. After passing them, exit back onto a gentle ridge leading to the summit. Descend from the summit via the Category I route. Total ascent time is 5-6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

Routes

3. Via the left edge, 3rd cat. of diff., 3A
4. Via the right S.–3rd cat. of diff., 2B
5. Via the 3rd wall, 3B
6. Via the right 3rd cat. of diff., 3B
7. Via the right S.–3rd cat. of diff., 2A
8. Via the S. ridge

Via the left edge of the Western counterfort, 3A cat. of diff.

Begin the approach along the right tributary of the Uluun River, and after 5–7 minutes, having crossed the river, start ascending up and to the left along the slope towards a large wall at the beginning of the edge. Gradually, the steepness increases to 30°. From the base camp to the start of the route — 30 min.

2. via N.-W. ridge, 2A category 3. via left edge, 3A category 4. via right S.-W. ridge, 2B category 5. via W. wall, 3B category 6. via right W. ridge, 3B category

Via Western wall, 3B category of difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the right tributary of Ulu'n river. After 20–25 minutes of movement, start climbing up a snowy couloir to the right of the western counterfort. Move along the right side of the couloir. Approach the heavily snow-covered "ram foreheads" at the beginning of the route. Then proceed in a rope team. Bypass the "ram foreheads" from the left along the ledge and ascend simple rocks to a snowy isthmus. Here is a control cairn on the wall in a tin can. The ascent time to the snowy isthmus from the base camp is 1 hour. From the control cairn, to the left of a large chimney with ice, begins an 80-meter key section of the wall:

• First, make a difficult 8-meter traverse to the left with a slight gain in height.

2. via N.-W. counterfort, 2A 3. via the left edge of 3rd counterfort, 3A 4. via the right S.-W. counterfort, 2B 5. via the W. wall, 3B 6. via the right W. counterfort, 3B

Via the right Western counterfort, category 3B

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20-25 minutes of movement, begin the ascent up a snowy couloir to the left of the rightmost counterfort of the summit. Having gone about 300 m, exit to the left onto the rocks of the western counterfort and approach the wall along large snowy, in some places icy, inclined slabs. The station is on the archa. Start with 10 m up the inner corner on the right, then move along gentle ledges under a small 5 m 80° wall, from which exit onto inclined slabs under the key section. It is passed through a clear gap in the right part of the wall, with an exit then into an inner corner. There are places with ice and a couple of "hourglasses." Then, bypassing the drop on the left, ascend to the saddle along the right side of the counterfort via inclined slabs, to the left of which is a control cairn under the wall. From the saddle, traverse right for 10 m to exit into a snowy chimney on the southern wall and climb back onto the counterfort. Having passed a three-meter step, move left along a horizontal ledge, and then ascend to the South ridge along the left side of the counterfort, bypassing its "fence." To the right, the counterfort drops steeply down. Having reached the ridge, move left towards Mt. Ermolaeva. The duration of the main part of the ascent is 4-5 hours. Descent is via route 1B along the South ridge.

Mt. Ermolaeva S. (2163 m) – peak Ermolaeva (2153 m), 2A cat. diff.

From the base camp, immediately cross to the right side of the right tributary of the Ulun River and begin the ascent towards the obvious buttress of peak Sev. Ermolaeva. First, ascend the snowy slope for about 300 m in the direction of the first "bastion" on the buttress, which is 8 m high. It is overcome head-on. Then, along the sharp snowy ridge for 50 m, approach the base of the second 20 m "bastion". Pass it on the right side through the wall. Further, after traversing 70 m of a simple ridge, reach the third 5 m "bastion". Pass it on its right side via a clearly visible internal corner. Then, along a simple ridge, reach peak Sev. Ermolaeva. Movement along the buttress is logical and safe. Further, move along a heavily serrated ridge for 200 m towards the foot of a large "bastion". It is passed via slabs and a wall in the center – the key point of the route. Then, another 60 m of a heavily serrated ridge with gaps, which leads to a wide snowy ridge of the summit ascent of peak Ermolaeva. The total ascent time is 4–5 hours. Descent is via the S. ridge on route 1B cat. diff.

Route Safety Assessment

The route is ridge-based throughout. Snow cornices on the ridge to the left along the way pose a danger.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Equipment Usage and Route Passage Features

For groups of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:

• Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
• Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:

• avalanches.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Gear Usage and Route Specifics

v. Klever (2119 m) – v. Fregat (2140 m) – v. Morion (2125 m), 3A cat. dif.

From the base camp, the ascent to v. Klever is done via route 1B cat. dif. along the Northern ridge. The ascent takes 1.5–2 hours. From v. Klever to v. Fregat, there are three pronounced "gendarms". All are passed head-on. The route runs along a highly jagged, sharp ridge and is psychologically very difficult.

Ascent to the 1st "gendarme"

• Descend 60 m from v. Klever into the pass;
• Overcome two walls — 3 m and 5 m;
• Traverse 50 m and ascend to the 1st "gendarme".

Further

• Traverse 60 m along a ridge of similar character;
• Ascend to the 2nd "gendarme";
• Descend from it 15 m, approach the beginning of the most challenging part of the route.