Pik Nansena

First ascent of Peak Nansen (5697 m) via the East Face in the Inylchek Tau range, 5B grade, a combined route 3200-3500 m long.

Region: Eastern Tian Shan. Ridge: Inylchektau (Too). Section number according to the 2004 classification table: 7.3.5 Peak name: Peak Nansen, 5697 m. Route name: via the East Face Proposed: Category 5B difficulty; first ascent Route character: combined Route elevation gain: 1497 m according to GPS. Route length: 3200–3500 m. Length of the section: A) Category 5 difficulty — 800 m B) Category 6 difficulty — 70 m 6 (A). Hooks left: A) Rock hooks — 0

Winter ascent of Peak Nansen via the North-Eastern Ridge, category 5A difficulty, accomplished by a team led by Alexander Manulik.

Passport Winter category Central Tien-Shan, Engilchek valley Peak Nansen via Northeast ridge Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent Height difference 2847 m, length 3130 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 30.5° No hooks were left on the route. No previously driven hooks were found Team's climbing hours: 23 hours to the summit. Total 37 hours. Days - 4. Nights spent - 4 in tents. Leader: Manulik Alexander Gennadyevich, Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: Mikhailov Mikhail Mikhailovich, Master of Sports, Puchinin Andrey Albertovich, Candidate Master of Sports, Akimov Vitaly Vladimirovich, 1st sports category

Ascent of Peak Nansen (5697 m) via the North Ridge, category of complexity 5B, height difference 2850 m, combined route.

Ascent Certificate Ascent category — high-altitude technical climb. Region — central Tian-Shan mountain range. Peak — Nansen Peak, 5697 m, via the North Ridge, combined route. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B. Route characteristics: height difference — 2850 m, length of R5 section — 700 m, average slope — 55°. Pitons used: rock — 66 pieces, ice — 55 pieces. Total climbing hours — 36. Team leader — Oleg Matveevich Solovei, Candidate Master of Sports; team members: Valery Kuzmich Otchik, Candidate Master of Sports; Vasily Mikhailovich Tereshkovets, 1st sports category; Valery Ivanovich Petko, Candidate Master of Sports.