Code I-I5 KOGUTAI BOLSHOY via West ridge, 1B category of complexity. From the saddle descend along the talus, then along the snowy slope to Bolshoy Kogutaysky Glacier and along it, following the northwestern slopes of Bolshoy Kogutay, reach the saddle of the ridge connecting Bolshoy and Maly Kogutai peaks. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge in its right part and then ascend the snowy slope to the saddle of Bolshoy Kogutay's West ridge. From the saddle of the North ridge — about 1 hour. From the saddle, move left and along a short rocky ridge reach the West ridge of the peak. Further:

• Upwards along the simple rocks of the ridge, overcome a 15-meter ascent directly (protection).
• Ascend along the left side of a wide talus ridge to under the second rocky ascent.
• Pass the second 10-meter ascent through the center; at the top of the wall — a cam.
• From the ascent, along the simple rocks of the ridge, bypassing a gendarme on the right, reach the rocky ascent of the summit tower.
• Overcome the ascent along the inner corner of the left side of the ridge (protection).
• From the corner, along the simple rocks of the ridge, ascend to the summit of Bolshoy Kogutay. From the saddle — 3–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route.

66. Bolshoy Kogutai via North Ridge (Category 1B route, fig. 8, 13). The path from the "Baksan" alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle in the North Ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai peak is described in route 60. The initial bivouac is on a large clearing with a forked rock. It takes 3 hours from the clearing to the saddle. From the saddle, turn left and ascend simple rocks of the ridge to below the 1st gendarme of the North Ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai peak. Climb up a 5-meter wall (most challenging section, piton belay!) to the gendarme (control cairn). Continue along simple rocks of the ridge, bypassing gendarmes on shelves to the right or left (belay!), to reach the summit of Bolshoy Kogutai. It takes 3-4 hours from the saddle. Descent from the summit:

• via the ascent route
• via the West Ridge (described in route 67) The duration of the route is 2 days.

Kogutai-Bashi 3821 m.

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Footnotes

1. 5. Korymad The ascent to the base camp is notable for its approach through a picturesque gorge. The further route involves using the "3mbpye" (Russian slang, untranslatable) to climb up the rock wall. The path starts with a steep ascent, entailing ladder climbing right from the start. The view from the top provides an impressive panorama. Initially, the route involves ascending to the rocky outcrops of Korymal'cy (on its eastern slope) ↩

68. Maly Kogutai via Western Ridge (Category 1B route) From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group 4 — 20 people), head up the road in the Baksan valley. Before reaching the “Itkol” hotel, turn left and cross the Baksan River on a bridge to reach the narzan springs. From the springs, turn left and cross the Kogutaika River. From there, turn right and ascend a steep trail through the forest along the left bank of the Kogutaika. Above the forest, the trail continues through meadows; then it crosses a stream and ascends along its right bank to a meadow with a large rock split into two parts, mentioned in route 66. Set up a bivouac on the meadow. The journey from the “Baksan” alpine camp takes 2.5–3 hours. The path from the meadow (without backpacks) to the saddle on the Northern ridge of Bolshoy Kogutai is described in route 60. From the initial bivouac on the large meadow, it takes 3 hours. From the saddle:

• descend via scree and a snowy slope to the Bolshoy Kogutai glacier;
• traverse the glacier to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak, which is an extension of the Northeast ridge of Donguzorun peak;
• cross a snow bridge over a bergschrund;
• ascend a short, steep snowy slope to the col on the Western ridge of Maly Kogutai peak. From the saddle, it takes 2–2.5 hours. From the col:
• turn left;