Code I-I5 KOGUTAI BOLSHOY via West ridge, 1B category of complexity. From the saddle descend along the talus, then along the snowy slope to Bolshoy Kogutaysky Glacier and along it, following the northwestern slopes of Bolshoy Kogutay, reach the saddle of the ridge connecting Bolshoy and Maly Kogutai peaks.

Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge in its right part and then ascend the snowy slope to the saddle of Bolshoy Kogutay's West ridge. From the saddle of the North ridge — about 1 hour. From the saddle, move left and along a short rocky ridge reach the West ridge of the peak.

Further:

• Upwards along the simple rocks of the ridge, overcome a 15-meter ascent directly (protection).
• Ascend along the left side of a wide talus ridge to under the second rocky ascent.
• Pass the second 10-meter ascent through the center; at the top of the wall — a cam.
• From the ascent, along the simple rocks of the ridge, bypassing a gendarme on the right, reach the rocky ascent of the summit tower.
• Overcome the ascent along the inner corner of the left side of the ridge (protection).
• From the corner, along the simple rocks of the ridge, ascend to the summit of Bolshoy Kogutay.

From the saddle — 3–4 hours. Descend via the ascent route.