Gora Gadyl

Traversing the Gadyl - Bashkara massif, category 4A difficulty level, duration 4 days, special equipment required.

Traverse of the Gadyl - Bashkara ridge (O. Aristov's route, category 4A, fig. 29, 30, 31). The path from the Djantugan alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Gadyl peak is described in route 144. From Gadyl, traverse along the simple, partially ruined rocks of the long, jagged, almost horizontal, snow-covered ridge, bypassing all the gendarmes on the left, to reach the South shoulder of Bashkara peak. From the shoulder, rappel, then descend along the simple ridge to the saddle. Further, along the snowy ridge, exit under the 2nd gendarme. Bypass the gendarme along the ledges on the left (belay!). Then, along the moderately difficult rocks of the ridge, overcoming the 1st gendarme directly, ascend to the summit of Bashkara. From the Gadyl peak, 3 hours. Descent along the Northeast ridge (see route 142). Duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 4 m, rock pitons - 6-8, ice pitons - 3-4, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac sites - on the platforms on the left side of the main ridge (see also routes 142, 144).

Ascent to Gadyl peak via South Ridge, category 3A, 4 days, route description and required equipment.

Gadyл via South Ridge (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow pad of the South Ridge of Bashkara's South shoulder is described in route 143. From the pad (without backpacks, with crampons!), traverse the snow slope to the right in the direction of the South Ridge. Having passed under the rocks of the (first) left buttress, cross a steep snowy couloir and ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the (second) right buttress of Gadyл peak. Along the snowy slope, then the rocks of moderate difficulty of the buttress or its right side, overcoming small walls directly, exit onto simple rocks and follow them to the rocky belt. From the bivouac - 5-6 hours. Under the wall of the rocky belt, traverse to the right, then via simple rocks and a snowy couloir, ascend to the shoulder of Gadyл peak's South Ridge, above the Big Gendarme in the ridge. From here, along the simple and moderately difficult monolithic rocks of the ridge with small difficult walls, then along the snowy ridge, ascend to Gadyл. From the point of exit onto the South Ridge - 3 hours. Descend via the ascent route or via the East Ridge (see route 144). The duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 2 m, rock pitons - 5-6, ice pitons - 2-3, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on the shoulder of the South Ridge, on ledges, on the summit. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)

Ascent to Gadyl peak via the Eastern ridge, cat. III, from the Djantugan alpbase in 3 days, with specialized equipment.

Gadyl via the Eastern ridge (O. Aristov's route, Cat. 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky with the initial bivouac on the rocks of the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky, descend westward along the snowy, then rocky ridge under the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the long horizontal snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Traverse the tower via the snowy slopes (belay!) on the left. Further along the long rocky-snowy ridge (overhanging cornices!), both gendarmes on it are traversed on the left, and exit under the rocky-snowy ascent of the Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Via the snow-covered rocks

Traverse of the peaks Bashkara and Gadyl (4A cat. of difficulty), K. Agger's route, description of the path, terrain features and recommendations for passing the route.

Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4 From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau. From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts: The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak. From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak. The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge: The 1st is taken head-on, The 2nd is bypassed on the right.