Ascent Passport. I. Rock climbing category. 2. Dombay region, North-West Caucasus. 3. Ascent to Avstriyskiy Komsomola peak (3654 m) via left NE edge — first ascent. 4. Difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference 1050 m, length 1350 m, length of sections with IV difficulty category — 950 m, average steepness 60°. 6. Diverse insurance: 30 rock pitons were hammered for insurance, rope loops were used 25 times. 7. Departure and return dates to the camp: 5–7 August 1976. 8. Number of travel hours from the start of the route to the summit — 12 hours and descent to Belalakaya glacier another 5.5 hours. The ascent was made on August 6, 1976 (The group had a reserve of warm clothing, a primus stove, etc.). 9. Sports group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Stepanov E.L. — with observers on the glacier — 3rd category climbers.

The first ascent to the summit of "Austrian Komsomol" (3600 m) via the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass from the south along the eastern ridge, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Dombay, July 1969, "Krasnaya Zvezda" alpine camp

Photo # 1

Panorama of peaks from the Belalai glacier. From right to left: Kap peak; "German Komsomol" peak; "Austrian Komsomol" peak. (September)

Photo # 2

View from the Belalai glacier to the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass (September).

Diagram # 1

of the area of "Austrian Komsomol" peak "M" is the saddle between the "Austrian Komsomol" peak and its southeastern summit - Festivalny peak.

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola from the east, from Chhalta – Dzykh Pass, July 9–10, 1972, first ascent.

I. Group Composition

• Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, unattached, sports society "Burevestnik", Dombay settlement.
• Khamtsov A.P. — 1st sports category, junior instructor alpine camp "Alibek", unattached, sports society "Burevestnik", Dombay settlement.

II. Alpinist and Geographical Characteristics of Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola Region (3650 m)

Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola is located in the Main Ridge and has a long ridge stretching from west to east and dropping steeply to Chhalta – Dzykh Pass (3180 m). At the end of the eastern ridge of the peak, dropping to the pass, there is a shoulder in the form of a huge tooth with a sheer eastern wall. Through this shoulder from the south, along the counterfort, in 1969 a route 4A category of difficulty was passed to Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola. There is also an old route — traverse of Pik Germanskogo komsomola — Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola 3A category of difficulty, which has not been used for a long time. It was passed by a group led by Yu. Gubanov — Yu. Prima in June 1972 to scout other routes in this area, as a result of which the described route was chosen by us. We assumed that it had not been climbed before, as all descents from the traverse of Pik Germanskogo komsomola — Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola 3A category of difficulty and descents from the route on Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola from the south along the counterfort 4A category of difficulty were made to the south, along another, easier counterfort. Apparently, the path from the pass was considered difficult or was completely unknown. Subsequently, when passing the route, before the already passed ridge section, we did not find any traces.