Marjanishvili
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateAscent to the top of Marjanishvili peak via the Eastern ridge, route 2A category of difficulty, snowy-ice slope and talus ridge.
28. Mardjanishvili via the Eastern Ridge (ice and snow route, category II difficulty,
figs. 5, 6). From the areas below Sharivtsék Pass (r. 18) turn left and ascend along the stream, then
via a grassy moraine left of the waterfalls, and a snowy slope with rocky ridges. Above the waterfalls,
turn right and, via a 3–5-meter rocky ascent, reach an ice and snow slope. Ascend the gentle slope
towards the left side of the Western Saddle of Sharivtsék Pass. Without reaching the pass, turn left and,
along a gentle snowy slope, bypass the first rocky sentinel of Mardjanishvili’s Eastern Ridge on the left
(beware of rockfall from the sentinel). From the upper areas, 1–1.5 hours. For the ascent path to the first
sentinel of the Eastern Ridge from the Lower Camps, see r. 29.
From the I sentinel, ascend 200 m up a snowy slope on the left side of the Eastern Ridge
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the ascent to the Marjanishvili peak via the Western ridge, a combined route of 2B category of complexity.
31. Marjanishvili via Western ridge (combined route, category of difficulty 2B,
fig. 5, 6). At the pass (m. 37) turn right and go along the snowy slope, then
along easy rocks to approach the Big Gendarme of the Western ridge of
Marjanishvili. Steep easy rocks («loose» stones, pitons) provide 30–40 m ascent
to the gendarme (cairn). From the gendarme a 35–40 m sport rappel descent follows
to the saddle of the Western ridge. Further 80–100 m along easy, broken rocks of
the Western ridge lead below a 15–18 m rock-step; overcome it along the slabs
on the right side of the Western ridge. Further, along easy rocks, a 5–6 m
snowy ascent, and talus of the Western ridge lead to the summit of Marjanishvili.
Description of the ascent route to the summit with a detailed analysis of the complexity and tactics of passage.
Fig. 6.
Route Description: Ю гребню
SSummitMateDescription of the combined route category 2B on the top of Marjanishvili along the Southern ridge with details of the passage and terrain features.
30. Marjanishvili via the South Ridge (combined route, category II complexity, Fig.
5, 6). From the saddle of the South Ridge of Marjanishvili (route 29) along the ice-and-snow
slope on the right side of the South Ridge, reach the first wide ice-and-snow gully of the
South Ridge. Here, turn left and, overcoming the bergschrund (protection), ascend the
steep ice-and-snow slope of the wide gully (loose rocks, protection) to the left side of
the ice crevasse, which is easier to bypass on the left via rocks and slabs (loose rocks,
protection). Above the crevasse, traverse to the rocks on the right side of the gully.
Along steep, straightforward slabs on the right side of the gully, 30–40 m upwards (loose
rocks, protection), reach a small platform on the ridge.