ЛВО

Peak4,195 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the 3A category complexity route to the summit LVO (4003 m) via the Southwest ridge in the Djoldjilga gorge, including the approach path and technical details.

LVO

The peak named after the Leningrad Military District (LVO) with a height of 4003 m was named by the army climbers of Leningrad in 1974. The rocky tower of the peak completes a short spur of the Southern ridge of the Karagoy peak in the Joljilga gorge. In the Joljilga gorge, LVO is flanked by steep walls and ridges, while the Ruchyev and East-Karagoy cirques have short, ruined rocky slopes, beneath which lie small, moraine-covered glaciers of the same name. The northern short ridge and southern walls await their first ascenders. 62. LVO via the Southwest Ridge, category 3A (M. Levin et al., August 12, 1982). 63. LVO via the Northeast Wall, category 4A (A. Gaas, Yu. Gavrikov, S. Fedorov, O. Khudyakov, July 27-30, 1974; G. Sidorov, N. Andreev, V. Vidyakin, V. Nadein, August 10, 1977). 64. LVO via the Eastern Ridge, category 4B (G. Rozhalskaya, V. Kirillov, B. Kozlov, G. Semenyuta, August 7, 1977; A. Tarasenko et al., 1983). 62. LVO via the Southwest Ridge The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5, 61, 62, 72). Length — 450 m, H — 200 m, time — 4–5 hours.

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First ascent via the Northeast Wall of peak "4003" (Kichik-Alay Range) with a difficulty category of 5B.

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Category of Technically Difficult Climbs

Khud Alay Range

(Kichik-Alay Ridge) Peak "4003" (LVO Peak). First ascent via the northeast wall, category 5B (approximately) from July 27 to 31, 1974. LVO Mixed Climbing Team:

  • A.V. Gaas, CMS, - team leader
  • O.V. Khudyakov, IMS, - coach
  • S.A. Fedorov, CMS, - participant
  • Yu.P. Gavrikov, MS, - participant
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### Description of the 5B category difficulty route to Peak LVO (4003 m) via the North-Eastern wall in the Alai mountain range, Kyzylsuu valley, Kyzylsuu district. The ascent route is located on the North-Eastern wall of Peak LVO, in the Alai mountain range. The climb involves overcoming steep ice and rock walls using various mountaineering techniques.

PASSAGE II ROUTE DOCUMENT

  1. Climbing Location — Rock Climbing Category.
  2. Climbing Region — Alay Range, Kichik-Alay.
  3. Climbing Route — Peak LVO (4003 m) via the Northeast Face.
  4. Difficulty Category according to KTGV — 5B category.
  5. Route Characteristics:
  • Route length — 1000 m,
  • Elevation gain — 700 m,
  • Length of sections — IV category — 300 m
  • V category — 280 m
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Route of 4B category of complexity to the summit of LVO via the Eastern ridge, 800 m long, duration 8-10 hours.

  1. LVO via the East Ridge
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